San Telmo: The Soul of Buenos Aires

Wednesday, Aug. 27, 2008

Read more about Argentina in International Living Postcards— your daily escape

Dear International Living Reader,

“This is the soul of Buenos Aires,” the cab driver assured us in his heavy Italian accent, “…the heart of Argentina.” Apparently out of metaphors, he then stopped the cab at Calle Defensa in the old San Telmo district of Buenos Aires, and we ventured forward into the brilliant Sunday afternoon sunshine.

And the driver had a point. The city of Buenos Aires enjoys the well-deserved reputation of being the “Paris of South America,” and is clearly a world apart from most anything else you’ll see on the continent. Rich in culture, the arts, and history, Buenos Aires is a class act, with its fine dining, excellent wines, theater, and, of course, Tango. But when you see San Telmo, you’ll soon see why the driver called it the “soul” of Buenos Aires.

San Telmo is not the “nicest” part of Buenos Aires, in the same way that Greenwich Village is not the “nicest” part of New York. But people love to be in San Telmo for many of the same reasons that they come to the Village. Although its original settlers were immigrant dockworkers, San Telmo now has a “working-class bohemian” feel, and is the home to many an artist, poet, student, and artisan craftsman.

San Telmo originally grew outward from Plaza Dorrego, one of the oldest public squares in Buenos Aires, dating back to the 1700s. The square was initially an area reserved for the horse-drawn wagons that brought produce into the city from around Argentina. In the 1800s, Plaza Dorrego became a public square, with the bars, restaurants, and coffee shops showing up later, in the 1930s. It was then that San Telmo gained its reputation as an area known for wine, song, and dance…a distinction that remains intact today.

As you stroll along the narrow streets, you’ll enjoy the sound of tango music as young couples dance in the street and groups of musicians play the music that’s become a national treasure. You’ll also see mimes, singers, and street performers of all types. Artisans are out in force on Sunday, and all of the restaurants, cafés, and shops are busy with locals and tourists alike.

Every cobble-stoned street seems to lead to Plaza Dorrego, which hosts the weekly artisan market that draws visitors from all over the city and the region. This famous antique market (officially called the Feria de San Pedro Telmo) began in 1970, and now has over 250 stalls, offering antiques, jewelry, old books, handicraft items, and all sorts of knickknacks…including a great collection of antique restored gramophones and Victrolas. The market—along with more than 200 other area antique shops—has given this area the reputation of being the most prominent antique center in all of Latin America.

And with San Telmo’s estimated Sunday crowd of almost 10,000, it will be apparent why the rest of Buenos Aires seems so deserted.

Many people assume that Buenos Aires is unaffordable, but the properties can be quite reasonable. Actually, they’re a great value when you consider the caliber of the city. The homes listed below are all in move-in condition.

Just two blocks from the famous Plaza Dorrego, there’s a small apartment with 12-foot ceilings in an attractive, 80-year-old building with beautiful stone scrollwork and a balcony overlooking the street. It has one bedroom plus a loft, and the asking price is $60,000.

Also two blocks from Plaza Dorrego, you’ll find a 1,150-square-foot apartment with two bedrooms, one bathroom, and classic iron scrollwork on the balcony. It’s completely renovated and in great condition, for an asking price of $100,000.

A super example of classic architecture in a historic building, this 110-year-old, 1,776-square-foot (including the 548-square-foot balcony) corner home has three stories culminating in a domed cupola overlooking the two streets. It even has a sparkling rooftop pool, and the asking price is $248,000. It’s fully restored, and in beautiful condition.

If you’re looking for something really huge, there’s a classic-style 5,327-square-foot apartment on offer with 14-foot ceilings, four bedrooms, and maid’s quarters for $350,000.

For more information on these properties (and other properties in Buenos Aires), contact Dina Crusizio at Dina@realestate.com.ar.

Lee Harrison
Roving Latin America Editor, International Living

Editor’s Note: Lee Harrison is currently in Brazil scouting the amazing property bargains on the northeast coast and will keep you posted in our monthly International Living magazine. If you would like to hear about his discoveries in person and ask him some questions, he will be speaking at our Live and Invest Overseas seminar in Long Beach, Calif., Oct. 3–5, 2008.

Read related IL Postcards:

- Invest in a Vineyard in Argentina

- Bargain Property in the Best Part of Town

- How to Get a Big Retirement From Little Celebrations