Buenos Aires in the Spring

Buenos Aires, now an international travel destination, offers good value as well as the seduction of living in a bygone, slower-paced era.

Entranced tourists shop, sip coffees in open air cafés, take tango lessons, dig into thick slabs of beef, drink the rich red local wines, and visit Evita's grave in Recoleta. An Argentine friend recounted to me how surprised she was to learn that most tourists visit only Buenos Aires. "I figured they'd want to go to Iguacu falls, to the Patagonia, to the mountains, beaches, or high sierras, maybe even to Antarctica. Our country has so much to offer. But no. They stay in Buenos Aires, which is so much like the city they left back home. Only cheaper."

Our friend has a point; some 80% of first-time visitors choose to stay only in Buenos Aires. I understand their choice--I, too, love the magnetic charm of this city.

When Vicki and I moved to Buenos Aires 25 years ago, the city pointed with pride to its four five-star hotels. Now there are 12 top hotels, with four new ones under construction. Even with the increased capacity visitors have trouble finding rooms. Friends from the United States last week tried at least a dozen hotels, at all price points, without success.

Our American friends last week reported they found Buenos Aires a "charming city with a feeling of grandeur. You can feel it in some of the wide boulevards, elegant buildings, statues and sculptures, and the many plazas."

Vicki and I agree, we love the place. Moreover, now--spring time in Buenos Aires--is our favorite time of the year, October through December.

You can watch polo played by world-renowned Argentine polo players; the high handicap polo season runs from Oct. 15 to Dec. 15. Take in a match or an entire tournament. The three main tournaments are Tortugas, Hurlingham, and Palermo. The first two take place just outside the city, you can take a remis (private taxi) from your hotel. The last and most important tournament, Palermo, in late November and December, takes place at the Buenos Aires polo grounds in town. This year the polo association plans an end-of-season benefit match between two 40-handicap teams. That is, all four players on each team will have the maximum 10-handicap. One of the teams in this year's competition has a total handicap of 39, and nearly all the teams sport team totals in the high 30s.

For safety's sake polo grounds must be dry. That means a big rain storm followed by cloudy weather can play havoc with the match schedule. Best just to come to town this time of year and hang out. Check the English-language Buenos Aires Herald, or the Argentine Polo Association (http://www.aapolo.com/, Spanish only) for rescheduled dates and times. You'll have an easier time buying a ticket for a match that's been rescheduled from a sloppy Saturday to a dry Wednesday (you and a few other retirees and tourists may be the only people there).

Spring is also wine-tasting season. "Experiencia Malbec" takes place at the Hotel Madero (Sofitel) in Puerto Madero. For a $10 cover you taste Argentina's best malbecs, arguably the best malbecs in the world. Andres Rosberg's Forum del Vino takes place in November/December, and in December the Sommelier Association does a wine auction of rare and special wines at the Sofitel on Arroyo. Many large wineries and wine shops have year-end tastings and parties. Again, check the Herald for times and places.

Finally, there's tango, always on tap but particularly vigorous this time of year. You'll find three kinds of tango here. First there are the local "milongas," informal tango with amateurs dancing ballroom tango to recorded music. Take tango lessons at one of the many dance studios and you can join in at the milonga. The next level offers tango for export--intimate shows attended by tourists and locals. For example, this time of year the Centro Borges (http://www.ccborges.org.ar/, Spanish only), at Viamonte and San Martin in the Galeria Pacifico, often has Friday night tango performances in their small theater. Or try Esquina Homero Manzi, San Juan 3601, for shows every night in an out-of-the-way setting for only $20, including dinner and wine. At the high end are slick, elaborate, full-costume, $100-a-plate tourist extravaganzas--my favorite is Equina de Carlos Gardel across from the Abasto shopping center. If you love tango, give all three a try.

Paul Terhorst
For International Living

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P.S. Our Colon Theatre here, the 100-year-old opera house patterned after La Scala in Milan, closed last week. Over the next 18 months workers will repair, enlarge, upgrade, and otherwise improve the theater. Re-opening is set for May, 2008.