Too Many Bargains at Ecuador's Market Town

Dear International Living Reader,

I’ve gone mad. Totally mad. I’m now loaded with blankets and all kinds of alpaca wear. Hand-woven textile and leather belts. Tagua animal figurines carved from vegetable ivory. Multi-hued woven table runners and shimmery rainbows of long cotton scarves. A textile wall-hanging of Piscean fish. Four pieces of signed art work. A Panama hat...

I already know it will be a struggle to lug everything home. But it’s impossible to visit Otavalo in Ecuador and not buy up the market.

North of Quito (2.5 hours), Otavalo’s claim to fame is its handicrafts extravaganza on Plaza de Ponchos. It’s said to be South America’s largest indigenous textile market. Saturday is when the square and surrounding streets get packed solid, but traders are here every day of the week.

Having seen the market in action over three days, I think it’s better to avoid Saturdays when coachloads of day-tripper tourists from Quito hit town. When things are quieter, you’ll more likely get better deals.

Most Otavalenos are indigenous Indians whose native tongue is Quechua, an ancient Incan language. Woman wear embroidered white blouses, wrapped skirts and strings of gilt and coral beads. Older men have their long hair in a single braid, while entrancingly handsome younger males often tie their locks in a pony-tail. All very colorful, but I get the impression that they’re not too comfortable with having their photos taken.

No price tags on the stalls. You’ll need to haggle for everything--and haggle hard. The more items you buy, the bigger the discount.

First, be sure to actually demand a discount. Once you get that, then ask for the amiga/amigo (friend) price, not the turista price. Then suggest an amount less than that. Don’t feel guilty about doing so--unless they’re turning a profit, vendors won’t sell. And if you’re not happy with the price, walk away. Chances are they’ll run after you with a lower one.

You’ll also need plenty of small change--$1 and $5 bills. It’s surprising how many vendors claim to have no change.

Yet again, I’m salivating over the potential profits if I resold such loot at craft fairs and car boot sales back home. But here’s something that really irritates me--when I read articles about places where you need to bargain, most writers rarely state prices.

Seems to me like they’re afraid readers might write back saying: "You idiot. You got ripped off."

Well, looking like a fool never worries me. So here’s what I paid. Do better if you can--but certainly don’t pay any more.

* Alpaca goods. Blankets: $11. Sweaters: $10. Zipped cardigans: $12. Shawls: $4. Scarves:$3.

* Table runners: $4. Tagua carvings: $1. Tapestry and leather belts: $5. Cotton scarves: $1.60.

I’m not sure how to describe the artwork--it includes metal relief. My favorite is of skeletal-looking monkey characters. These were $4 apiece.

Panama hats--which are made in Ecuador--come in various qualities. The tighter the weave, the more costly. I only wanted something to keep the blazing equatorial sun off my head, so an $8 hat was good enough for me.

Steenie Harvey
Roving Travel Writer, International Living

Editor's note: All this month we're celebrating "May Madness" with our biggest, most extravagant, most exciting sale event of 2009. Here's the deal: For this entire mad, mad month of May, you get 20% off all products in IL's Online Bookstore. When we say "all," we mean everything—including 20% off Ecuador: The Owner's Manual ... $55 off the Ultimate Travel Writer's Program... and 20% off IL's Complete Guide to Starting Your Own Import-Export Business