A Movie-maker’s Dream City

My quest had failed. I never managed to get anywhere near the Brown Madonna’s ornately-decorated cart. So, I couldn’t help tear it into pieces.

Now please don’t think that I’m a frustrated vandal. Before a midnight firework extravaganza, the destruction of the carro--the holy cart--is the final act of Matera’s Festa della Bruna.

Almost everything gets ripped apart--angels, cherubs, doves, the lot. (Not as difficult as it sounds as the cart is constructed of papier mache.) The only thing that gets saved is the statue of the curly-haired Queen of Heaven holding baby Jesus.

With origins going back to 1365, the Festa is a red letter day for the people of Basilicata’s second largest city. It takes place every July 2. Having a fragment of the cart is considered a blessing--and also reputedly guarantees good luck for the coming year.

When I was there last year, I never got up to see the Shepherd’s Procession and Mass (6.00 a.m....you must be kidding), but the rest of the day is a delight. Cavalcades of horseback riders in shining armor appear from mid-morning to act as defenders of the Queen of Heaven’s throne. On Piazza Vittorio Emanuele’s bandstand, musicians from around the region play everything from Verdi opera tunes to Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture.

Matera’s streets get completely thronged. Everyone turns out for the biggest event of the year--including balloon sellers, coconut sellers, and Africans who hit town with new supplies of fake designer handbags. There’s a hurdy-gurdy man whose caged budgerigar apparently tells fortunes. An outdoor market stretches all the way up via XX Settembre. Cafes, bars and gelaterias do a roaring trade. When night falls, starbursts of colorful illuminations make the streets almost as bright as day.

Not to be confused with Maratea on the coast, Matera feels older than time itself. The heart of this inland city is the labyrinthine Sassi quarter, its ancient houses the color of sun-bleached bones--you may have already seen this place. Using Matera as a substitute for Jerusalem, it’s where Mel Gibson filmed much of The Passion of the Christ.

In fact, many movies have been shot here, including scenes from the remake of the horror classic, The Omen. If you’re up for a restoration project, prices for a 752-square-foot house in the Sassi quarter run about 65,000 euro ($83,500).

Not that you’d want to rent it to culturally-minded vacationers during the Festa della Bruna--you’ll want to be here to experience all the magic for yourself.

Steenie Harvey
Roving Europe Editor, International Living

Editor's note: Gorgeous, glamorous Italy is way more affordable than you probably think. You can have a two-course lunch with wine for $12. Or buy move-into houses of character for under $50,000…or, as Steenie mentions above, you can buy restoration projects in ancient quarters favored by Hollywood for under $85,000. A life in Italy is a sweet life…and our Italy Owner's Manual gives you everything you need to start your own la dolce vita in Italy this year. And don't forget--during our special clearance sale, you get 20% off the Italy Owner's Manual and free shipping…but only while stocks last. Order now with this link.

To read more IL articles about Italy, see:

Europe's Most Sensational and Seductive Country

One of My Favorite Places in Italy (You've Never Heard of It)

Where to Find an Affordable Slice of Italy's Most Dramatic Coast