Explore Spain North to South for $21

Monday, Oct. 20, 2008

Read more about affordable travel in Europe in International Living Postcards—your daily escape

Dear International Living Reader,

If you think that winding through dusty hills in the Spanish countryside—a glass of red wine in one hand and a good book in the other—is out of your price range, then think again. Traveling in Spain is much cheaper than you could imagine.

When I made the decision to live in Granada, Spain, I searched for an affordable way to see the country. The local transportation is quick, easy, and, most importantly, affordable. Buses and metros, which are connected throughout most of the country, will make you forget the notion that Europe is too expensive as a vacation destination.

I quickly found Madrid’s metro system to be comparable to those in any other major Western city. My one-day metro pass cost €3.50 ($4.60)* and was good for 24 consecutive hours, allowing me the freedom to jump from site to site easily and affordably. I simply purchased a ticket from a clearly marked automatic ticket machine by the doors of the station.

On my first visit to Madrid, I rode the metro along Line 1 to Gran Vía for some shopping, then switched to Line 2 and got off at El Parque Retiro, the Central Park of Madrid, where I spent the afternoon lying on the grass reading a book on Spanish art I’d purchased earlier at El Museo Prado. El Parque Retiro is perfect for a stroll through flower gardens, amidst statues of Spanish war heroes and modern art, and Spanish lovers holding hands and drinking wine.

I finally made my way back via Line R to end my evening in the famous Plaza Mayor, where I caught a flamenco show put on by street performers, and enjoyed a meal at Casa Botín. This hole-in-the-wall establishment directly off la Plaza is recognized by the Guinness World Records as the oldest restaurant in the world...and, more importantly, recognized by me for the best roasted suckling pig in the world.

Madrid’s metro also offers a 10-trip ticket for €5.80 ($7.65), so if you’re in town for more than a day, this is the cheapest option.

When I finished my weekend trips to Madrid, I could simply catch one of the many buses going from the main bus station to the south. Granada was a five-hour journey and cost only €16 ($21) for a one-way ticket, which I bought at the bus station just before boarding.

Not only is the five-hour trip affordable, but it also offered me a chance to enjoy the view of the Spanish countryside: fields of wheat, vineyards, and olive groves, surrounded by tiny whitewashed villages. The only mile-markers were the great black silhouettes of the famous bull billboards, or “bullboards,” as tourists fondly call them.

The bus system in Spain became my preferred mode of transportation because it offers affordable and scenic travel all over the country. The buses have dependable routes and accommodating schedules, so you can either plan in advance or just show up to the station and purchase a ticket the same day you want to travel.

Most major cities have direct trips a few times a day, and I was always able to buy a ticket, even on holidays. I experienced only a handful of late arrivals throughout my travels, but this was mainly on holidays...or when a herd of goats decided to park in the middle of the highway en route to Granada. You’ll have to remember to pack your sense of humor with your guide book.

The buses are comfortable; just sit back in your reclining chair and enjoy the scenery or a Spanish-dubbed romantic comedy on the television.

From the central bus station in Granada, I could easily take a taxi (for less than $13) to the city center, where I could eat my fill of tapas and pastries for less than $10. Authentic schwarma con pollo (chicken kabobs) are only €5 ($6.60), or if you really want to treat yourself, head for the gypsies' caves in the mountainside, where €20 ($26.40) will get you dinner with wine, and includes a three-hour flamenco show.

If you happen to overdo the red wine at the flamenco show, it’s better to grab a taxi or bus to take you back to town, as the dimly lit narrow streets can be ankle-breaking. But at least you don’t have to worry about the price—you can always get around with less than €10 ($13) in your pocket.

Brigid Darragh
For International Living

*The exchange rates may have changed since press time. Get the current dollar-euro exchange rate.

Editor’s Note: Discover the secrets seasoned travelers use to find the best airfares and the tricks they use to grab the last remaining seats on a flight or uncover prime hotel vacancies during peak tourist season in this essential guide.

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