A Home With a View of the Adriatic Sea: $186,000

Monday, April 14, 2008
Puglia, Italy

Read more about Italy in International Living Postcards—your daily escape

A long stretch of the deep turquoise waters of the Adriatic comes into sight almost as soon as you leave Bari airport, and the sandy beaches of the Ionian to the south are no more than 40 minutes’ drive away. For me, one of the best things about Italy’s “boot heel” province of Puglia is that you’re never far from the coast.

Vineyards, endless olive groves, and almond trees grow from the dark red earth here, making a sharp contrast with the uninterrupted blue sky. Each orchard or plot is marked out by a low dry-stone wall, bleached bone white by the sun, or a prickly pear cactus hedge. New building is limited to two stories along this part of the Adriatic. and the older whitewashed houses stand out clearly against the backdrop of the glittering sea.

Even the town names are fun: Locorotondo, Conversano, Trani. And how can you resist a place called Monopoli, for example? This walled town 26 miles southeast of Bari is full of scenes that come straight from a child’s picture book: the strong stone turret of the castle protecting the brightly painted fishing boats in the harbor; the towering dome of one of the many Roman churches picked out against the cloudless sky; a sun-filled square of orange trees in blossom where old men enjoy the last rays of the day on a café terrace; a melting scoop of Amaretto ice cream in a sugar cone.

Wandering the narrow winding streets in the medieval quarter of the port of Trani (northwest of Bari), I found a synagogue-turned-church and traced the pre-12th-century Hebrew symbols, still clear on the wall. Along the seafront in the more recent part of town I discovered a choice of the freshest sea urchins, mussels, and octopus, straight from the sea.

Although the region is just starting to see foreign tourists, Italians from the north have been coming here for years, renting or buying their summer homes. There’s a strong demand for property.

Antonio Dell'Oglio from Centro Casa Immobiliare in downtown Trani was happy to try out his English on me. He showed me a one-bedroom property of 700 square feet within strolling distance of the sea front for less than $256,000. This price beats anything I’ve seen on the French Mediterranean, where the same sum will barely get you 200 square feet. Antonio also had a newly restored three-bedroom apartment on his list in the historic center with a terrace of nearly 500 square feet and the all-important clear sea view. The price? Less than $365,000. Another agency turned up a one-bedroom restored apartment for $214,000, and there are small properties available to restore if you’re willing to put in the time and effort.

Drive east along the main coastal road past Bari and Monopoli and you’ll see signs for Rosa Marina, a leafy town of gated communities and VIP villas, and Savelletri, an exclusive fishing village. No need to look here for property—it’s overpriced—but do try one of the fish restaurants—a full three-course meal of home cooking and wine in one of them came to €15 ($23) a head.

The property bargains are in the nearby seaside town and clean sandy beaches of Torre Canne. You can find modern apartments close to the sea with all amenities—often for less than $200,000.

Tony D’Amico from Gruppo d’Amico showed me a number of properties in Torre Canne, including a two-bedroom home with a sea view from the veranda for $186,000. This type of apartment is popular in the summer; vacation rentals can fetch more than $1,900 a week in high season.

You can contact Antonio Dell’Oglio at Centro Casa Immobiliare in Trani by e-mail.

Leigh Fergus
Roving Europe Editor, International Living

P.S. Puglia is not only for beach lovers. Tune in tomorrow and I’ll tell you about the great townhouses I’ve found for less than $100,000.

Editor’s note: Leigh Fergus will be speaking at the Ultimate Event, May 28–31, in Cancún, Mexico. If you are thinking of making the move or planning a vacation in Italy, Leigh can give you tips on where to find the most beautiful places that tourists don’t know about. She’ll also be speaking in-depth about living and buying property in France.

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