Discover Asilah’s Charm Before Property Prices Rise

Tuesday, June 10, 2008
Asilah, Morocco

Read more about Morocco in International Living Postcards —your daily escape

“This morning, I woke up to sunshine, a brilliant blue sky, the sound of birdsong, and, best of all, a beautiful view of the azure Atlantic…”

That was a March entry in my journal, from my first day in the ancient Phoenician port of Asilah. This is Morocco’s Atlantic coast. The place feels like Western Europe, looks like it, but is even easier on the wallet.

After a breakfast of tangy just-pressed local orange juice, fresh rolls, croissants, olives, and eggs, I settled my hotel bill (less than $55 for a comfortable double room with a prime sea view) and strolled into town. My walk took me past palm-lined avenues, the elegant white stone church, and through the covered market. The glossy dates, plump figs, and fragrant tangerines are less than 50 cents a pound here.

At the news stand by the old city wall, I found Spanish and French newspapers and had a brief chat with the paper seller. He speaks Spanish, French, and a little English. He needs to, as this seaside town is on the tourist route—just a 40-minute drive from the port where the Spanish ferries arrive.

Asilah is on the Atlantic coast between Tangier and the capital, Rabat, where growing numbers of Spanish, French, and British vacationers are heading for a relaxing and inexpensive break in the sun. In fact, my contact here tells me that real estate prices are going up all the time now that the Spanish vacationers have “discovered” Asilah.

It’s not just the perfect location, the sunsets over the Atlantic, and the clean, sandy beaches that make this town so appealing. It’s also the stout Portuguese-built kasbah (fort) overlooking the crashing waves and the tranquil cobbled streets of the restored medinathat that draw dreamers and artists here.

Wandering the tidy lanes where children skip and chatter, through arched doorways leading to yet another dramatic view of this unspoiled coast or a small craft shop of silverware or sturdy rugs, I’m struck by the serenity of this town of barely 30,000 people.

The whitewashed walls of the medina are brightened by the bold colors of new wooden shutters and repainted arched doors, and by the little oases of orange trees, bougainvillea, and geraniums bursting from pots and tins by doorways.

A few of these ancient homes have yet to be renovated. You can see which houses are for sale—they have “ A vendre” or “ Para comprar” painted on them with a phone number to call. I saw a small two-bedroom house for around $108,500…a larger, 1,500-square-foot traditional building with intact Moorish tiling, the rooms arranged around a central courtyard, and two roof terraces with an asking price of $232,500…and a three-story house with sea views in the old city for $148,000.

I also discovered where a small group of beach apartments will be built…for $112,000 each. I tell you where in the next issue of the International Living magazine…and right now, you get a free copy of How to Get the Best Deal Every Time You Travel when you subscribe to IL magazine.

Leigh Fergus
Europe Editor, International Living

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- A Place in the Sun for $40,000

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