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Where to Find an Affordable Slice of Italy’s Most Dramatic Coast

Date: 08/31/2008 Author: Steenie Harvey

Monday, Sept. 1, 2008

Read more about Italy in International Living Postcards—your daily escape

Dear International Living Reader,

Italy’s Campania region takes in Sorrento and the Amalfi’s show-stopper coastline of tortuous bends and cliff-top villages. Naples, Mount Vesuvius, and the ruins of Pompeii, too.

Off its coast shimmers the Isle of Capri, where average square-meter prices are around $16,000. Prices along the Amalfi coast aren’t that far behind.

If you ask a U.S. or U.K. property finder about Campania holiday homes for less than $250,000, they’ll probably gurgle like drains. (Instruct a travel agent to find you a three-star hotel beside a beach for less than $100 (a night) in summertime, and you can expect the same reaction.)

So why explore Campania?

Simple. It’s because you can find good-value hotels and affordable holiday properties here. By affordable, I mean small villettas with gardens starting at $152,000.

Venture inland and you can pick up homes in delicious hill towns for well under $60,000. Lots of homes, lots of hill towns. And two-story modern villas with a couple of acres of land in the countryside for $125,000 (or less).

But you have to target the right areas. And that means exploring corners where few foreign tourists go. So for starters, forget Capri, Amalfi, and Sorrento.

Instead, continue south and seek out towns and villages that you’ve never heard of. Places where you can gorge on $6 pizzas...plates of homemade spaghetti stuffed with clams and zucchini flowers for $10...half-liter carafes of local wine for $6.50 or less. In one osteria, my jug of nectar was a mere $2.50.

Full details about Campania’s property bargains will be in my upcoming print issue article. Yesterday I visited Scario on the Gulf of Policastro—a gorgeous village with a church, stepped alleyways, and a little harbor.

Scario itself is pricy: $146,000 for a teeny 322-square-foot apartment. However, it has an agent, Enzo Carro, who presented me with three more affordable solutions. They were in the nearby villages of Bussento and Strazzari—both inside Cilento National Park.

My favorite was in Strazzari: a €120,000 ($174,000) 752-square-foot villetta with two bedrooms, a portico, and flowery garden.

My coastal base for this section of the trip is Villammare’s Hotel La Perla. In June (a good time to come if you’re not keen on blistering heat), it’s €60 ($87) nightly for doubles. Breakfasting on its terrace overlooking the glitteringly blue Mediterranean is pretty special.

The rate also includes spiaggia servizi: two sunbeds and a beach umbrella on the hotel’s shingle/pebble beach. Me, do sunbathing? Well, if the sunbed is for free...

Steenie Harvey
Roving Europe Editor, International Living

Editor’s Note: Watch out for Steenie’s full coverage of Campania in the upcoming issues of International Living magazine. She will cover topics of affordable, luxury, and rural homes as well as how the superstitious locals deal with being stricken by malocchio (the evil eye). If you are not a subscriber, you can sign up here.

Read related IL Postcards:

- Secret Passages, Donkey Feasts, and Homes for $15,500

- Baroque Bargains in Italy’s Heel

- An Italy You Can Afford

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Reader Comments

Just Returned from Italy

Be prepared for some area of Italy not "caring" for Americans. We just turned around and went somewhere else to spend our Euros! We greatly enjoyed Florence at the Hotel Pendini (special rate was 69 Euros about 104 US) for August. Yes, it was very hot and humid but no rain or bad weather.

I had purchased a handbag from REI that was slashproof because so much of what I had read was to put fear in us. Yes, the train and airports are very crowded and I did feel better with the bag there. My husband wore a wasteband for our passports and Euro currency. I used the "bra" attachment.. little aggravating but didn't actually need to carry a purse unless I wanted a brush or a bandaid (yes, feet did and do still have blisters from soooo much walking!)

The Italians may eat a LOT of pasta, but they are not fat! They WALK almost everywhere! Those that drive have nerves of steel (trust me, I thought Florida and California drivers were crazy...They are tame!) Would not recommend renting a car or scooter here until you were aware of the craziness. The Italians DO drive on the same sides of the road as Americans, but they have seperate "lanes" (if you want to call them that) for taxi's or buses.

We found we could navigate between cities (Rome to Florence to via del Reggio and side trip to Venice) using the train system. BE AWARE though, almost none of the train ticket sellers spoke ANY English! We stuck to the EuroStar and only took those that had a straight (no changing trains) shot to our various destinations. If you go "Second Class" we found the main difference is the seats and little table between the seats are smaller and the place for luggage is smaller. "First Class" gives you larger seats, table and a larger bin to put your luggage (note, this is overhead and YOU have to lift the luggage, so pack LIGHT!.... We didn't!, but lesson learned!)

There are Pharmacies all over most towns. I needed band aides and a foot soak for my blisters. (Dr. Scholls is even understandable in Italian! LOL!). My husband bought Nicorette type gum with no problems. We had all our American prescriptions with us and kept those in a small "carry on" bag when we went away from the main areas if overnight!

Food was relatively inexpensive if you order pasta, pizza or some of the local dishes. Since I'm not big on spinach in any form, I stuck to pretty well know things. MEAT is VERY expensive. One friend ordered a steak at 48 Euros... That's $72 US! We got stuck paying the bill for this one and we shared a pizza and spagetti! Water is sold in bottles everywhere. Please note: Gas means it is "carbonated" water and NO GAS (Natural) means it's what we know as "normal" bottled water! Prices varied from 61 cents Euro to 4 Euro, depending on where you bought it. We found a little "grocery" where a 6 pack ws 61 cents for each bottle. (Watch, because they try to sometime charge for each bottle seperately at 1 Euro). All of this doesn't sound like much, but the money truly racks up expensive quickly if you aren't careful.

We greatly enjoyed the trip to Italy. Would have loved to stayed and seen more on the Country. Unfortunately, we went with another couple who we were supposed to "share" expenses with and we ended up paying more than our share. Will NOT do that ever again!

The ONLY Tour that I prepaid before I left the States was a Papal General Audience! Be careful on this one too. For 4 it was $140 Euro, and we "thought" if included a tour of the Vatican and Sistene. It was a walk from the Bridge of Angels with a guide giving us information about the city, walls, and interesting "stuff", but when we got to the Vatican there were NO SEATS for us... We were in a mass of humanity and only seperate seats were sporatically throughout this area. We ended up standing in the back, couldn't see, and I am NOT a crowd person, so I stood in the outter area and saw the Pope on a TV. I can do that for free at home! I did let the "Tour Guide" know that that was one of MY priorities and was REALLY disappointed.

We did pay for a Colliseum Tour. It was well worth the 20 Euro each. This particular Tour did get us in front of a very long line in stifling heat, however, there was an "additional tour" of the BC (Before Christ" era across the way, but we could not ever find the Tour Guide to finish the "tour".
If you have issues with climbing stairs, you might want to skip this one!

For the ladies who like to shop: There IS an outlet area for the fancy names outside of Florence, however (you KNEW there was a catch, huh!) you MUST take a bus for 23 Euros and the timing is only at certain times of the day. Monday most shops are closed as Italians call this their "Holiday". This Mall area was open, but we had found sufficient little stores to buy things without traveling out to the "name brand" places to spend more! Be SURE to get your tax free receipts if you spend over 180 Euro in any ONE shop. Accumulating them does not count. ALSO, be aware that NO ITALIAN store will do refunds or returns! Be sure what you buy you are just THRILLED with!

All in all, we greatly enjoy our visit. Maybe, after we save a LOT of money or the Euro comes more in conformity with the US Dollar, we will try a Bed and Breakfast Tour of Ireland, Scotland and England with a side trip to Germany and the Alps!

BTW We were in Italy from 8/24/08 to 9/4/08. Most Italians take "Holiday" during August, so on the weekends it wasn't crowded. School starts in Italy 9/15.

Italy locations

Thanks Debbie!
There's normally a map included with articles in the IL print issue, but I don't know if using one for the postcards would take up too much space. Maybe our IT guys will want to consider your suggestion.
What I did on this trip was flew to Rome, took the train south to Salerno in Campania, and picked up a hire car there. All the great locations I found were south or east of Naples. Roads are mostly well-signposted. There will almost certainly be maps in the hire car, but you can get a detailed one from the Italian tourist office before you go. Plus you'll find lots of maps on the web.

Maps or description

Really enjoy your articles and we're excited about coming to the Long Beach Conference - our first one. I would love more description or even better to see a map(s) showing those of us who are geographically impaired the general location of the places mentioned. I certainly generally know where Capri is (haven't been that far south yet) but it would be great to get a better idea roughly where some of these places are (especially when I read your article on "Old Italy Still Exists"). Bon Appetit or one of the magazines used to show two maps - one a high level and a second the local region. Not sure if they still do but it was great.

Thanks and look forward to hearing more!

Debbie Johnson

Debbie

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