Brazil’s Top Colonial City by the Sea

The taxi came to a halt after winding through a series of narrow and steep cobblestoned streets. We got out of the cab, and entered a colonial world that was different from anything we’d seen so far in Brazil. The smell of baking bread wafted from the French bakery on the corner as we walked by, while a group of young people were engaged in animated conversation in a small colonial-era café. Behind it all was a steady and alluring reggae beat.

This is São Luiz; Brazil’s #1 colonial city by the sea. Located on a large tropical island, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to more than 3,500 historic colonial buildings. The city’s beauty is partly due to the custom of siding the houses and buildings with ceramic tile (called azulejos) which became popular in the early 1800s. São Luiz is the capital of the state of Maranhão, and lies slightly southeast of the mouth of the Amazon.

Founded by the French in 1612, it still retains some of its French influence, reflected in the food, bakeries, and even a French cultural center with language classes. It also enjoys a rich African influence--particularly noticeable in the food and music--due to the large slave population that worked the cotton and sugar that once made São Luiz rich.

There are plenty of cities in Brazil that are more glamorous. And there are better investments for your real estate cash in this country. But there’s no place more fun to be than São Luiz.

It feels like the genuine Brazil…one that’s not reserved for foreigners. We relaxed over a long lunch at Restaurante Antigamente, enjoying their excellent local seafood stew…and plan to come back to see tonight’s Jazz/Samba show that starts at 8.00 p.m. We passed a number of hours enjoying the colonial architecture, listening to the music, and watching the open-air theaters along popular avenue Rua da Estrela. During the visit, we even got to know a few of the local shop owners.

Rua da Estrela is the heart of the colonial district, and the most popular avenue with visitors to the city. It’s often free of traffic, and open to pedestrians walking among its shops and cafes. A home with a small interior courtyard on this street would cost about $100,000. I enjoy the idea of buying and restoring one of these classic colonial buildings.

One thing lacking in historic São Luiz is good hotel space. This looked to me like the best business opportunity in this part of the city. The boutique hotel we stayed in was booked solid, and was the only one we could find in the district. There are plenty of colonial buildings awaiting restoration, and apparently plenty of travelers in need of classy accommodations.

But whether you open a business or not, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a more enjoyable city in which to pass the time. And you’ll experience a side of Brazil that many don’t ever get to see.

Lee Harrison
Roving Latin America Editor, International Living

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