IL Postcard
Travel Writer: A Day in the Life
Date: 05/28/2009 Author: Steenie Harvey
I’m paying $75 for a seven-hour date with Genaro. Bit pricey, but that’s still $15 less than the competition. Now, don’t get me wrong. Although some travel writers outrageously abuse their travel expenses, my Ecuador expenses are legitimate.
Based in Cuenca, Genaro is my private guide/driver--and he’s escorting me around some of Azuey province’s small towns for the day. I could have used local buses for next to nothing, but it’s fun having somebody to answer all my "why’s that?" and "what are those?" questions.
Travel Writer Tip: Ask Lots of Questions
Poor Genaro! After being quizzed about everything from the recession to socialism, single mothers and Cuenca property prices, he’s probably relieved when we reach Gualaceo.
With a grandiose church and flowery plaza, Gualaceo is a pretty mountain town of around 20,000 people. Many are indigenous Indians, and their agricultural produce market is foodie heaven.
Here another mystery gets solved. Not realizing they’re often used as additions to soup, I’ve been ignoring the bowlfuls of strange white objects that keep appearing in restaurants. Being short-sighted, I thought they were tiny garlic cloves. Wrong. I’ve been spurning corncob kernels.
Genaro explains most Ecuadorians prefer white corn to yellow. Not that yellow corn gets wasted. Here, it’s often fed to chickens. Nice to know one of my favorite foods is poultry feed...you can't call me high maintenance.
Wearing long bright skirts and Panama hats, some market women have stands; others sit on the ground with baskets. It’s all tremendously colorful but the ladies aren’t keen on being photographed. As I approach, they turn and hide their faces.
Genaro says it’s through embarrassment rather than any belief about a camera stealing their soul. "They don’t think they are important or pretty enough to have their photos taken." (How sad. How strange.)
Seeing all the wonderful produce almost tempts me to turn vegetarian. I never realized potatoes could look so desirable--or so many varieties existed. Jeweled with pink and gold skins, some are as small as thumbnails.
Black raspberries, tiny sweet bananas. Locals pick over untidy bouquets of herbs and flowers used for medicinal teas. There are giant sacks backed to the brim with rice. I catch the whiff of cut pineapples...a juice stand must be around somewhere. We go off to find it.
I’ve already tried juices squeezed from tree tomatoes, maracuya (passion fruit), guanabana (soursop) and naranjilla--like an orange but not quite. All are delicious.
A Travel Writer Must Tackle Anything
With an eating area up above, Gualaceo’s indoor market gets really busy at weekends when all the eatery stalls open. But today, the only choice is the remains of a sucking pig. Oh, and more liquid refreshment--here the option includes a beer and carrot juice combo. It seems a criminal waste of beer, but some locals believe it provides energy.
Not seeing any cuy (guinea pigs) is disappointing. As they’re an Ecuadorian food staple, I expected some. But guinea pigs have become expensive and they’re usually only a weekend or fiesta treat.
If "treat" be quite the word, of course. From photos, roasted guinea pigs look horrific--exactly like rats on sticks. But a travel writer should always tackle anything, rodents included. (You owe it to your readers. You swallow vile things so they don’t have to.)
Honestly, I do intend sampling what western kiddies regard as pets. Sometime. Just not on any day that has a "D" in it...
Steenie Harvey
Roving Travel Writer, International Living
P.S. If you need a guide, contact Genaro by cellphone at 093684145. Or reach him through Vaz Travel whose Cuenca office corners Gran Colombia and Luis Cordero streets, tel. 2839018.
Editor's note: If you think you could write a postcard like this one…there's never been a better time to take up the travel writer's life--our most popular course, the Ultimate Travel Writer's Program, is reduced by $55 during our May Madness Sale. But hurry--the sale ends Sunday.
To read more IL articles on being a travel writer, see:
How to become a travel writer
The Truth About Earning a Living as a Travel Writer
Become a Published Travel Writer in Less Than 3 Months
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