Country Article / Postcards
Burning Up in Ecuador
Date: 12/30/2004Dear International Living Reader,
If you're a newcomer in Ecuador, you'll think the city's burning to the ground at midnight on December 31, as hundreds of paper-stuffed figures are burned in effigy around town, with a score of bonfires blazing in the streets to add to the general chaos and festivity.
The figures burned in effigy celebrate Año Viejo (Old Year), and the idea is that people are burning away those things that were bad, troublesome, or unpleasant about the previous year, enabling a fresh start for the New Year. The tradition here is somewhat unique, as most countries celebrate the coming of the new year, rather than the demise of the old.
Starting in early December, you'll see the street corners fill up with a multitude of stuffed figures and masks that you can buy for this year's burning. Once New Year's Eve arrives, many men will dress up in black costumes as the "widows" of the people who are to be burned at midnight and ply the streets asking for alms for the dead…money that is no doubt spent on the next round of cane liquor or fireworks. (The quantity of rockets and fireworks available would be enough to overthrow many governments.)
Often, these festivities--reminiscent of Guy Fawkes Day in England--are accompanied by more traditional New Year's Eve parties in homes about town.
Wondering who the best-selling likenesses are this year for burning? According to Oscar Sánchez (the guy who sells these dummies on our street corner), President George Bush--the big winner in previous years--is in danger of being overtaken in 2004 by Ecuadorian President Lucio Gutiérrez, followed by a host of other political figures from Ecuador and around the world.
Lee Harrison
For International Living in Ecuador
P.S. I just got back from spending a week on the coast of Ecuador, exploring some of the longest stretches of invitingly deserted beach I've found anywhere, with sometimes as much as 20 miles between road access points. We also sampled more shellfish dishes and Piña Colada recipes than I'd imagined existed. More on this later.
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