The Streets of Guatemala

The friendly people who live on Lake Atitlan are especially suited to help the novice learn Spanish.

International Living Postcards--your daily escape

Monday, Oct. 16, 2006
San Pedro, Guatemala

I studied Spanish for two years in high school and one year in college, yet when I crossed the border into Guatemala the only phrases I could share with the locals was “Yo quiero Taco Bell” and “Donde esta la bibliotecha?”

I learned more in one week at the Chichi markets than in all my years of formal education combined. Haggling is a wonderful opportunity to meet people, examine their culture, and learn the basics of any language. Lago de Atitlan in Guatemala--with its breathtaking landscapes and friendly population--is especially suited for this.

In this remote area of the country, three dormant volcanoes surround an enormous lake called Atitlan. Along the edges of the lake, there are small villages that can only be reached by jumping on one of the many rickety boats ferried by the locals. San Pedro is a hot spot for bargain language schools and outdoor activities. For but $10 a day, you receive four hours of one-on-one instruction from a native speaker. That comes to less than three bucks an hour.

On top of that, most of the schools offer perks to entice customers. You can paddle around the lake in a kayak, ride horses up the mountain side, or take salsa lessons from a gorgeous woman named Rosa with impossibly lithe hips. My school even threw a graduation party for us, which included a home-cooked meal and several drinking games with a bongo drum. Although it’s a remote location, you’ll easily find food and hotels. Whether you’re a budget traveler or a couple seeking an adventurous vacation, San Pedro can accommodate you. Over the years, travelers from around the world have fallen in love with the town and decided to make it their home. Aside from the traditional Guatemalan dishes, there are restaurants that serve gnocchi, falafels, and good ol’ American-style cheeseburgers.

Although it is impossible to learn an entire language in a week, you will be amazed at how much you can pick up in such a short amount of time. Before I went to San Pedro, I couldn’t even ask for a bus ticket without referring to my Spanish/English dictionary. However, by the time I left, I could order food, count to 100, and haggle to my heart’s content.

Not far from Lake Atitlan is the largest market in all of Guatemala, called Chichicastenango (“Chichi”). In my opinion, Guatemala is the best country in all of Central America to find foreign miscellany. Even a novice treasure hunter like myself couldn’t help but come home with bags filled with goodies. In one afternoon, I purchased a colorful hand-woven hammock, several wooden Aztec masks, a dozen statuettes, and a breathtaking goddess print that is the pride of my living room. All this for just over $100. But the greatest gift I received was from the shopkeepers I met along the way who helped me with my verb conjugations and shared stories about their lives. That was priceless.

Dale Bridges
For International Living