Country Article / Postcards
Sessions
Date: 02/23/2004
Dear International Living Reader,
Everywhere in Ireland--even the smallest village--has at least one pub that hosts regular weekly Trad (that is, traditional music) Sessions, where the locals meet with guitars, accordions, Irish whistles, bodrahns (the small Irish drum), whistles, and fiddles.
The Kings Bar, one of my favorites, recently changed hands. This was the best little music pub in Waterford for folk, rock, and jam sessions. It was home to a weekly Folk Night where you could hear some of the top Irish folk singers and songwriters. The Kings is missed, but the Folk Night is now comfortably relocated at The Munster (The Mall) on Sunday nights. Rumor has it that the informal jam sessions will relocate soon to The Bank (O'Connell Street).
Other pubs in Waterford where you can meet locals, drink pints, listen to stories, and hear (or play) some tunes:
* The best Trad Sessions are at Kitty Kieran's (40 Barrack Street). Most weeknights they have a jam session; sometimes it's Trad and sometimes it's "Mad." During these latter sessions you are as likely to hear Bob Marley as your favorite Trad songs.
* Geoff's (8 John Street) has little nooks and corners with names familiar to regulars--the "Protestants Corner," the "Catholics Corner," and the "Queen's Chair"--that provide a certain intimacy despite its large area.
* Downes (8 Thomas Street) has been owned by the same family since Henry Downes founded it as a distillery and pub in 1797. Large and rarely crowded, except Saturday nights when it's a popular local hangout. Don't come expecting to meet tourists, but do taste Downes No. 9, the blended whiskey that has been made and served at Downes since its founding.
* If your tastes run toward tourist hotspots, visit T & H Doolans (George's Street). They feature crowd-pleasing Irish music every night of the week. There's plenty of singing, and you are sure to hear classics like "The Irish Rover" or "Wild Colonial Boy." The place always has a lively crowd and good atmosphere.
Thom Hickling
International Living's resident pub crawler
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