Country Article / Postcards
AN IRISH HOLIDAY SECRET EVEN THE IRISH DON'T KNOW ABOUT
Date: 07/24/2003Dear International Living Reader,
I can't believe my luck. It's 10 a.m., and I have the 47-acre garden to myself. Sitting by the lake, I look back at the Palladian Mansion and its elegant terraces--the grandeur is breathtaking and the sense of peace absolute.
The Powerscourt estate, 1,000 acres, sits at the foothills of the Wicklow Mountains, just 12 miles south of Dublin city. The walks through the gardens are cleverly designed so that you stumble on hidden treasures--lily-filled ponds, a pepper-pot tower, elaborate statuary, hidden seats in walled gardens, Japanese gardens, and even the family's pet cemetery. "Little Bots--the dearest little friend for over eleven years, died June 19, 1944." And my favorite "Sting--died May 21, 1912, aged 12 years. Faithful beyond human fidelity." There are 23 gravestones marking the beloved, from dogs to cows.
You will find the Powerscourt estate in all the guidebooks, and deservedly so. It's graciously designed and immaculately maintained. But what you won't find anywhere is the fact that you can stay on a nightly basis in the apartments in one of the courtyards attached to the house. Even the Irish don't seem to know about these holiday gems. The five open-planned studios are simply furnished. Most sleep two to three people, but one family apartment sleeps five. They are usually rented to golfers, as the golf course on the estate is one of the most prestigious in Ireland. But the apartments are open to everyone, and while weekends are busy, midweek is often available.
By staying in the apartments you get free daytime entry to all the estate amenities--the gardens, river walks, shops, café, and the house exhibition, which traces its history since the 12th century. If you are travelling with kids, the Powerscourt waterfall, at 400 feet, is the highest in Ireland and worth a visit. It's an ideal spot for picnics and has a large play area, with climbing frames, swings, and sand.
When the crowds go home at 5.30 p.m., slip out of your apartment and take the lime walk with panoramic views over the estate and the Sugar Loaf Mountain. Or head for "The Killing Hollow," where Wingfield (Viscount Powerscourt) is supposed to have killed the last of the O'Tooles (a powerful Irish family). As dusk falls, stroll to the charming village of Enniskerry. Just outside the gates of the estate, it's perfect for drinks and dinner.
The apartments are available year-round ($117 to $152 per night and $670 per week). For residents, there is 25% discount on Green Fees, which are normally $117 in the summer. Contact Powerscourt House, tel. (353)1-204-6033.
Jean Flitcroft
For International Living
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