250 Problems in Paradise

Monday, Sept. 18, 2006
Modica, Sicily

The southeast of Sicily (the island off Italy’s “toe”) was devastated by an earthquake in 1693. The towns that dot the Iblean hills and valleys were rebuilt during the late Baroque period, leaving posterity with a phenomenal architectural heritage. UNESCO has recognized the towns of the region as supreme examples of the creative genius of the eighteenth century. Modica is one of these World Heritage sites and is well on its way to restoring itself and becoming a destination for the sophisticated traveler.

Modica’s architectural jewels are spread out over the upper and lower parts and this geographical feature ensures excellent views from almost any angle. The Lego-like housing blocks cling to the surrounding slopes, and outbursts of Baroque churches puncture the urban pattern. Unlike most of the other towns in the southeast where their churches are either covered in scaffolding or left to ruin, Modica’s churches have all been restored.

San Giorgio is the town’s most spectacular monument. Its sculptural façade soars toward the sky and despite the 250 steps leading up to it, you are drawn to it like a bee to honey. Its honey-colored stone and intricate carving is mesmerizing. The façade culminates in an open stonework belfry, a feature characteristic of Sicilian architect Gagliardi. His work here became the prototype for late Baroque churches in the region.

The steep sloping streets and all the steps are hard work, but Modica offers plenty of local treats to offset the labor. Chocolate made its way to Modica early via the wealthy Cabrera family who owned land in South America where the cacao bean was discovered.

Directly from Aztec recipes to the Modican kitchen, chocolate was made into a local specialty. Modican chocolate bars have a delicious grainy texture, while the mpanatigghi, a ravioli-shaped cookie stuffed with cacao and minced meat (a surprising but pleasant combination) melts away like mousse in the mouth. A much less subtle tasting experience is the local cheese. We came to call it “squeaky cheese” because of the noise is makes when chewed. Don’t let it distract you from the taste, however, which can range from creamy to peppery. Finally, the trattorias (quality snack bars) serve scacce, a sort of filo pastry dough folded flatly around pizza ingredients such as tomato sauce and eggplant.

It is evident from the proud Sicilian families strolling the boulevard in lower Modica during the evening passegiatta (a typical Italian ritual) that life here is comfortable. The elderly mother of the chef in restaurant San Benedetto agrees: “It’s a paradiso…except for all the steps.”

Dianna Beaufort
For International Living