Country Article / Postcards
Opera by Moonlight
Date: 10/20/2005
Dear International Living Reader,
A gently swaying bridge over Lake Massaciuccoli is the only entrance to this stadium. When you're seated, you'll have full views of the lake and the Apuan Alps beyond the stage. The breeze through the leaves in the park behind the auditorium adds a soft sensual atmosphere and carries the scents and sounds of Puccini's magnificent music in the moonlight and magic at Torre del Lago. This is the annual Puccini Festival, celebrating Italy's beloved opera composer.
Every July and August, 40,000 opera aficionados and curious tourists wend their way to Puccini's villa on Lake Massaciuccoli by the village of Torre del Lago, to experience opera in an unusual venue--the stage, jutting into the lake on reclaimed land, seems to float on the water.
This year, I saw Madame Butterfly. Although the scenery will vary with each production, Madame Butterfly was performed on a raked stage with a single large marble sculpture bathed in the light of the full moon that rose breathtakingly during the performance.
Tickets cost between 28 euro ($34) and 105 euro ($126) per performance. The best place to buy tickets is at http://www.puccinifestival.it (you can also buy tickets at places like http://www.musicinitaly.com but you'll pay more). The Puccini Festival theater seats 3,100 (by comparison, the Arena di Verona, another major outdoor summer opera festival site, seats 15,000) so book early. Tickets are not sent to you--you must pick them up at the box office prior to performance. It starts at 9 p.m., but go early to avoid the crush at the ticket window each evening. Festival grounds are best accessed in daylight by first-time festival attendees. Plan a full evening at the lake--several charming restaurants are adjacent to Puccini's home on the Festival grounds.
The festival's a worthwhile trip from Florence (a one-hour drive), but also nicely worked into a weekend at the beach as the beaches from La Spezia to Viareggio are some of the widest and sandiest along the western coast of Italy. This is the most treasured summer holiday resort area along the Italian Riviera. Charming Lucca, east of the lake, has excellent hotels.
The 52nd season runs July 21-Aug. 26, 2006. On the program is La Boheme (which I hope to see), Madame Butterfly, Tosca, and Turandot.
Orla Larson
For International Living
P.S. Although each performance is preceded by announcements made in five languages, attendees are heavily Italian--whose love of Puccini is shown occasionally too well when you sit next to someone singing along with the soprano or humming with the tenor. But all is forgiven for the love of opera!
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