Cottage Country in Nicaragua

At the southern end of Lake Nicaragua is Solentiname, a chain of islands where herons strut, osprey swoop, and cicadas sing at night from giant trees...a place where you can ditch the cares of city life on the far shore... Photo courtesy of Paul Marshman

Thursday, January 27, 2005
Solentiname, Nicaragua

Most of us who grew up in northern climes have fond memories of "cottage country," a peaceful, green place to escape the city and live with nature for a few weeks.

At the southern end of Lake Nicaragua, you'll find a place that fills the bill admirably--a beautiful chain of 36 islands called Solentiname. Once you arrive here, the rest of the country seems a thousand miles away. Herons strut along the wooded shorelines while osprey swoop for fish in front of your boat, and at night the cicadas sing from the giant trees outside your window.

Since you're in cottage country, you'll need a cottage to stay in. And in Solentiname, the nearest thing is the Albergue Celentiname, a big, rustic place overlooking the shoreline of Elvis Chavarria Island (known locally as "La Elvis"). Run by Maria Guevara, a member of the thriving local artists' colony, it's a little home away from home.

The rooms are basic, although you can get a private cabin with its own lake view. But the place to be is the Albergue's huge, open veranda where you can sit in a big wooden rocking chair or a woven hammock and enjoy the stunning tableau of trees, vines, and gorgeous flowers that looms just over the porch rail. If you're lucky, the resident scarlet macaw will drop in to show off its spectacular suit of red, blue, and yellow feathers.

There are other things to do in Solentiname, of course. The fishing is great, and so are the canoeing and birdwatching. And the archipelago has a rich history and culture. There is a Solentiname museum, and the island of Mancarron has a fascinating collection of local artifacts and books commemorating Ernesto Cardinal, a priest and poet who started the local art colony and later became a government minister. Nearby is the attractive Hotel Mancarron, if you feel like more upscale accommodations.

If you're lucky, you may get to visit some of the native Solentiname artists and view their unique "primitivist" landscapes, filled with fanciful birds, animals, and mythological characters. The paintings are delightful, and they're a steal--a medium-sized piece goes for only $50.

Solentiname is just a 45-minute plane ride from Managua, and a 45-minute boat ride from the border town of San Carlos. Leave after breakfast, and you can be living the cottage life by lunchtime.

Paul Marshman
For International Living

Editor's Note: If you're planning to spend time in Nicaragua, get in touch with IL's local office staff in Granada. You can find them at the IL Office, located at Calle El Consulado, Del Parque Central, 1½ c al oeste; tel. (505)552-8107 or (505) 868-3366, or get in touch by e-mail: Nicaragua@Internationalliving.com. International Living's extensive experience with the legal, management, and cultural issues of living abroad has already helped many IL readers seeking new homes in the sun. We know where to look for dream properties in Nicaragua…and we'd love to hear from you.