The Corn Islands of Nicaragua--Like the Caribbean Before the Resorts Moved in

--Lee Harrison--

US$1 equals 15.6 córdova

Word among the locals is that one of the two boat captains shuttling people out to Little Corn Island is safe...while the other is a reckless daredevil who gets an early start on the day's rum ration. As the twin 200-horsepower Yamahas roared and our boat crashed through four-foot swells--the captain gleefully racing ahead of another launch--I had a good idea whose boat we'd chosen for our afternoon trip.

I'm traveling on Nicaragua's Caribbean coast, and when I think back to my relatively civilized arrival in other Caribbean ports or my recent trip to Nicaragua, it's obvious that the Nicaraguan Caribbean is unlike either of its namesakes; it's another world entirely. When you touch down in Bluefields you'll have jumped into a different culture, climate, and ambiance.

Tropical gateway

Named for the Dutch pirate Henry Bluefeldt who hid out here in the early 1600s, Bluefields is located at the mouth of Rio Escondido where it joins the murky Bluefields Bay on Nicaragua's eastern shore. It's the country's principal Caribbean port and the heart and soul of this primarily English-speaking region. The 50,000 inhabitants enjoy a warm climate moderated by a nice ocean breeze. Usually just a stopover on the way to the Corn Islands, I found this gritty, busy port city a pleasant surprise and worth the stay. If you like hot Reggae dance clubs, bustling markets, and strolling along busy seaport waterfronts, you'll like Bluefields.
Onto Big Corn
Situated about 40 miles from the mainland, the Corn Islands, or Islas del Maíz, are what the Caribbean was like before the resorts moved in.
Big Corn Island covers but four square miles and is lush with green forested hills and mangrove swamps in the interior and miles of beautiful white coral sand beaches on the fringes. Its 8,000 inhabitants--descended from European pirates, British landowners, and African slaves--are friendly and welcoming.

The economy of Big Corn Island was based mainly on palm oil production until 1988, when Hurricane Joan's 125-mph winds destroyed most of the island's palm trees. Today, the islanders make their living plying the seas for lobster, the biggest industry of today's economy.

Big Corn's main population center is on the west side, while the east is sparsely populated, with sections of rocky coast, lagoons, and mangrove swamps...as well as prevailing easterly winds that keep the nights cool and comfortable. Although Hurricane Joan damaged its coral reefs, there is still plenty of underwater territory to explore.

On arrival, the main town of Brig Bay near the airport reminded me of a miniature Bluefields, complete with the Country (yes, Country) and Reggae music playing through open doors. We were met by a young lady who handed me a map and a one-sheet tourist guide to Big Corn, and by a small group of taxi drivers offering to take us anywhere on the island for about $1.

The island's best beach

I found the beaches on the western (leeward) and southern sides of the island best for swimming. Walk about 15 minutes south of "downtown" to a scenic cove called Picnic Centre and Big Corn's widest white-sand beach and calmest waters. Another great spot--and more secluded--is Long Beach, located on Long Bay on the eastern side of the island.
The snorkeling is great on the north coast of the island, near the Bayside hotel. There are three separate barriers of reef here, and you could keep busy for days exploring the underwater marine world in these warm waters. It was clear for my visit, but I'm told the water can be cloudy in windy weather. From the nearby hotel's restaurant you'll have a dazzling view of the ocean and Little Corn Island when you're ready for a break.

If diving is your preference, try the Nautilus Dive Center (two tanks for $55 and great coffee) or the Corn Island Dive Resort, which offers PADI certifications. Either can get you to Big Corn's best dive spots.

Coconut bread and lobster

Walking down the main street in Brig Bay, I was captivated by the smell of fresh coconut bread wafting from the open bakery doors. It's the island's best treat, other than the fresh lobster. It wafts from local bakers' ovens around 11 a.m., so that's the time to be in the street if you want it hot. For dinner I'd head over to Seva's on the northeast stretch of the island, with a rooftop terrace affording a beautiful ocean view to complement the mouthwatering lobster. The fresh seafood was also great at Fisher's Cave, near the boat dock, with a dining room looking out over the sparkling waters.

This is what you came for

As we relaxed on the wooden benches of a table covered by a small grass umbrella looking out over the brilliant clear blue-green waters, a teenage girl made her way through the sand to our spot balancing two plates, each containing two expertly wood-grilled lobster tails with all the trimmings. Enjoying the lobster and ice-cold Victoria beers--and the $6.73 total--it occurred to me what a really unique place Little Corn Island is.
Little Corn is probably what you came to the Nicaraguan Caribbean to find. Ringed with sparkling white-sand beaches and clear blue waters, it's a pristine destination for those who travel well off the beaten track. There's excellent fishing, world-class diving, mouthwatering seafood, and the companionship of a lively but small group of hard-core travelers. Only about 800 acres in area, it has no modern-resort development or motor vehicles and can support only 250 visitors.

My first order of business was to drop my few belongings in the cabin, take my gear, and head out to one of the world's largest barrier reefs. As I swam through the warm, clear waters, my first encounter was with a large Stingray, which gently glided several feet below, followed by a five-foot shark cruising the reef. I learned later that the Nurse sharks are harmless, but being unfamiliar with them I prepared myself to lose at least one body part.

In addition to the snorkeling I enjoyed exploring the entire island on foot, walking its well-maintained paths through hills and deserted white-sand beaches. The centerpiece of the day was a stop for lunch at one of several rustic beachside shacks to enjoy another wood-grilled lobster tail and ice-cold beer. Passing through the small town on the west side of the island, I found a neat Caribbean village, complete with several shops, a couple of hotels, and a good selection of additional restaurants to try.

Off the grid

For accommodation, Casa Iguana has the best of what Little Corn Island has to offer. With a selection of cabins--all with ocean views and enjoying the constant sea breezes--they also come with a white-sand beach, excellent fishing and diving on the nearby reef, mouth-watering breakfasts, and fresh seafood dinners. They're completely "off the grid," using wind and solar power to accommodate their needs. High-speed Internet access is available via satellite. Their dive shop (Dive Little Corn) is well-equipped and staffed. Contact them at e-mail: casaiguana@mindspring.com; website: www.casaiguana.net.