Exploring India Astride Khaju

Women who walk five miles in this desert still manage to look immaculate.

Monday, May 21, 2007
Thar Desert, India

Read more about India in International Living Postcards--your daily escape

The Jeep took us deep into the Thar Desert, where our camels patiently waited. Supplies were loaded onto their backs and the bed quilts created a cushioned seat. The camel driver introduced me to Khaju, a sleepy-eyed creature who, I was promised, would be my new friend for the next few days. Initially I was terrified, but the slightest tug guided Khaju in the right direction (except when he was chasing female camels).

We traveled a few hours before reaching a village. Women in beautiful multicolored saris and ivory armbands running to their shoulders arrived at the farmhouse with up to nine clay water pots balanced graciously on their heads. They had walked five miles from the nearest well, yet looked immaculate in their traditional dress. I felt someone pull my hand; a toothless girl grinned up at me and dragged me to see her newborn baby goats hidden under a basket. Through broken Hindi, I asked why she kept them there. She simply pointed to three eagles circling overhead. Unfortunately, the rest of the villagers were not so friendly; as we walked farther into this desert village, children jumped all over us, pinched us, and tried to remove our jewelry. The camel drivers beckoned us to move on and explained that these people are called the "untouchables."

After a long day in the baking heat, we set up camp at some sand dunes. Our view: miles of unspoiled desert rippling like a silken gown. Climbing to the top of one of the sand dunes, we watched the reddest flaming sun I've ever seen as it set on the Pakistani border. Dinner was vegetables, chapatti, and warm chai. Afterward, we washed the dishes desert-style, with sand and water, leaving them gleaming. We sang songs around the campfire; the camel drivers even had special songs to lull the camels, including Khaju, to sleep.

We stayed at Ganesh guesthouse in Jailsamer and took the safari with Ganesh Travels. The boys at this family-run business went out of their way to make us feel at home and are the most genuine and honest people I met in India. Contact Sebastian, the manager, at ganeshtravel45@hotmail.com.

Elaine Cooney
For International Living

P.S. One out of six Indians are born into the "untouchables," a group considered to fall outside the elaborate caste system, and subject to discrimination and human rights abuses.