Country Article / Postcards
Three must-do's in the capital that time forgot
Date: 02/05/2007Built by Stalin as his model Soviet city after seeing it reduced to rubble in World War II, Minsk remains a beautiful city. Its wide tree-lined avenues lead you through a succession of open squares and parks and the colonnaded facades really are breathtaking.
But why come here? Here are a few recommended must-dos…
Firstly, Minsk offers an authentic soviet experience. Although ostensibly European, Belarus’ capital continues to hearken back to a time even Moscow has forgotten. Hammers and sickles adorn almost every building, and the streets (Lenin, Karl Marx, Engels...) are kept spotless by armies of cleaners. The police are a visible presence on most street corners; nobody dares to drop as much as a sweet wrapper. The KGB is still operational—almost certainly keeping hotel rooms for foreigners under surveillance. Meanwhile, the President, known as “Europe’s Last Dictator,” keeps a tight reign on everything from what’s on sale in the shops to who studies at the universities.
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Minsk quick facts:
Population: 1.8 million |
Your options for eating out are limited but the local fare has its own charm. Why not try a bowl of borscht (beetroot soup) or schi (cabbage soup). For more decadent dining, a plate of blini (pancakes) and caviar with Belarusian vodka should do the trick.
Start off the experience by checking into your hotel—don’t be surprised by the arctic wind blowing off reception: In Soviet times you were supposed to feel grateful for anything you got, so being pleasant wasn’t part of anyone’s job description. Some efforts are now being made to improve service, but most staff still tend to look at you as if they’d like you to drop dead—the same applies in shops.
My own stay at the Planeta Hotel was most memorable for the breakfast buffet, a compilation of the previous night’s leftovers—how else can one explain the profusion of cold brussels sprouts? Although there are no tea-making facilities in the rooms, each floor has a housekeeper to help out. If you go to her office and act out pouring water, drinking, then smacking your lips in pleasure, she’ll soon realize that you’re desperate for a cuppa’.
Another must-do is to sample the local nightlife. The address to try is the Alcatraz, a nightclub located under the Trade Union Palace in October Square, guaranteed to amuse. This is where you can be locked in your own private cell should the mood take you.
To top off your Minsk experience, I recommend a trip to one of the city’s state banyas (saunas). What could be more invigorating than getting naked with a few dozen strangers, steaming yourself into oblivion, then jumping into a barrel of ice cold water before whipping one another with damp birch twigs? And all for the bargain price of $1.
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