Country Article / Postcards
Slats, Slots, and Codfish Rissoles
Date: 03/23/2005
"Considering the timing of my visit, an amazing number of people are out and about. Since temperatures are cool this time of year, obviously no sunbathers are on Espinho's beach. But plenty of scarved and booted walkers are setting out on the 3-mile boardwalk of wooden slats over the dunes toward the next seaside village, Granja…"
Dear International Living Reader,
Like your seas a wild winter symphony of crashing swells? Your beaches golden? Lunch for under $8? Then check out Espinho, an Atlantic seaside town in northern Portugal. It's a half-hour south of Porto, the country's second city. Frequent trains leave from Porto's Sao Bento and Campanha stations--fare is €1.10 ($1.46).
Behind Espinho's sea-front is a neat town of black and white mosaiced sidewalks. Although today is a religious holiday, most shops are trading. Behind the steamy windows of pastelarias, families sit nibbling natas (custard cakes) and sipping strong espresso coffee. Cake-munching seems to be Portugal's national pastime.
I'd hoped to find a realtor open, too. No such luck, but in one window I see some listings. No sizes given, but two-bedroom apartments in Espinho start at €115,000 ($153,000). In Francelos--three villages to the north and with a golf course--an 1,100-square-foot apartment is €125,000 ($166,000).
I had lunch at Cafe Palacio--almost directly opposite the railway station on the seafront side. Four large cod rissoles, salad, and fries: $6. A large glass of vinho verde white wine: $1. Espresso coffee: 70 cents. You can eat here in the evenings, too. Most cafe/bars serve simple meals until around 10 p.m.
Steenie Harvey
Roving Euro-editor for International Living
P.S. Espinho's casino opens at 3 p.m. Disappointingly, though, it's little more than a seedy slot palace. Attempting to get to the roped-off gaming area (minuscule), I'm told I need to buy "a special card" to play blackjack. Don't know how much these cards cost, but the principle seems outrageous. The gambling can wait until my next trip to Vegas...
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