Stranded on a Bucharest Backstreet

Beware the rogue who drives this type of car.

The Scotsman told him we weren't paying anything. Not a single lei. And if he didn't like it, he could call the police. After that, he spat at our feet, swore a blue streak, then drove off in a rage. I don't know the exact insult, but "Vagabondi" was in there somewhere.

Yes, it's taxi driver trouble again. It's pitch-black, we're lost somewhere in Bucharest's concrete unknown, and the map is back at the hotel. No point seeking a Metro station--they're now closed.

(I can't think of a good excuse to explain why I'm on a backstreet at 2.30 a.m., so I'll tell the truth--it's our last night in Bucharest and I wanted to visit a casino.)

But it's uncanny how often I gravitate toward rogue taxis. Or, more accurately, how often they find me. From Prague to Panama, it happens too frequently for it to be mere coincidence. It's not like I'm a naïve first-time traveler. Maybe I'm just cursed.

On this occasion, I'm glad to have company. Although I'll always tell a rogue to stop, an "incident" has never happened so late at night. And this pock-faced crook looked like he weighed as much as both of us put together. A nasty piece of work, and not one I'd care to tangle with on my own.

All Bucharest taxis are legally obliged to display their tariffs on the side of the door. Before getting in, always check--there will be two (sometimes three) separate charges. This menu of tariffs can easily confuse foreign visitors.

The first to watch for is the pornire, the flag fare. It's rarely more than 1.50 to 2 lei ($0.65-0.86), and is displayed prominently. The second figure, in smaller lettering, is the per kilometer rate, the tarif. This usually varies from 0.80 lei ($0.34) to 1.50 lei ($0.65). However, it can be as high as 10 lei ($4.30) per kilometer if you've found yourself a rip-off taxi. The third rate (if there is one) is the stationary rate, or waiting time. There is no special night rate.

Favorite haunts of taxis with high tariff rates include Bucharest's main rail station, Gara de Nord…Bucuresti Mall…and certain city center hotels. Whenever possible, avoid the vultures lurking outside these places.

Get your hotel or restaurant to call a taxi for you--there are some reputable firms out there. Alternatively use the Metro. It's hot and sweaty in the tunnels, but discount rate packs of 10 tickets only cost 7 lei ($3).

Flagged down near the Hilton, the rates on the door of our taxi looked fine. However, we hadn't even traveled half a kilometer before the fare was up to 18 lei, almost $8. Clocking up alarmingly, the meter had obviously been tampered with.

We got back to the hotel eventually--in a taxi with a normal tariff and an accurate meter. However, we waited 30 minutes for one to come by.

Steenie Harvey
Roving Europe Editor, International Living

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