Country Article / Postcards
Jazz Under the Stars in Old Siam
Date: 01/14/2004Dear Reader,
Two weeks ago, I went back to my old stomping grounds in Bangkok for the Second Annual Thailand Jazz Festival. Thailand might seem like an odd venue for such an event, but the King of Thailand (born in the United States) loves jazz music and is an accomplished jazz musician.
The weather this time of year in Thailand is perfect; about 75 degrees Fahrenheit, low humidity, with a nice cool breeze. The festival was held at a large park near the Sanam Suepa Royal Palace, and lasted three days, starting each night at sundown.
Two stages were erected directly in front of a gorgeous colonial culture clash of architecture. As you arrive for the concert, you're greeted by an immense bronze statue of King Phumiphon on horseback in full military regalia. Glowing in the background is a huge domed building belonging to the Thai Royal Family. It's roughly the equivalent of having a concert on the grounds of the White House.
The temporary food court was more like a Thai food fair. Thais are big on food-on-a-stick, which is perfect for this kind of venue...and goes well with an ice cold beverage at a jazz festival.
All the performers were major league and all were in rare form. Each night the first concert would begin--on time--at Stage One. Immediately after the performance guests had about 15 minutes to pick up their camp (folding beach chairs were available for a refundable 500 baht--$13--deposit) and move approximately 30 meters to Stage Two for the evening's second performance. The show always ended back on Stage One.
Middle and working class Thais mingled with expatriates and tourists. Everyone came for the music. Larry Carlton, a veteran jazz guitarist, was the final act. He had the park full of 15,000 jazz lovers jumping.
I left with his new CD in my pocket humming an old blues tune. As I sat on the Sky Train heading back to my hotel, I looked at the three-day Jazz Festival plastic entry card in my hand. It was the best 25 bucks I'd spent in a long time.
Bart Walters
for International Living
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