Country Article / Postcards
Hidden Luxury in South Africa
Date: 01/17/2005Dear International Living Reader,
For a luxury getaway at non-luxury prices, the cape peninsula in South Africa holds a hidden treasure. The peninsula, with its stunning scenery, is an easy drive from the cosmopolitan and increasingly popular Cape Town.
Follow the coastline south along the Cape's West Coast. Thirty minutes out you will come to a stretch of highway called Chapman's Peak Drive, a highway carved in precipitous cliffs. Similar to driving California's Big Sur or Italy's Amalfi Coast, it's a short but breathtaking drive, and if you make a rest stop, you're apt to see dolphins swimming in the sea below.
Next, head east across the peninsula. Another half-hour's drive will bring you to Simon's Town and the Boulders Beach Lodge. It's easy to miss--so be on the lookout for the small sign. When you see the sign, turn toward the sea for about three blocks, and here you will find a guesthouse where the rooms are small but inviting, the restaurant is exquisite, and the beach, almost at your doorstep, teems with African Penguins.
The rooms are luxurious--fluffy down comforters; towels laid out invitingly with the artistic touch of wild heather and smooth stones from the sea; a thatched tray in the window well that holds snacks, coffee, tea, and small bottles of Amarula (the rich creamy liquor made from Africa's wild marula fruit). The cost per night is less than $55 for two people, breakfast included.
After you've taken a moment to unwind, you can walk across the small service road that separates the lodge from the beach, part of Boulders National Park. Here a protected colony of penguins go about their business, the tuxedo-clad adults grooming the downy gray babies, or toddling across the rocky outcroppings, or snuggled into the shade of a bush. When they are roused, you can hear a cacophony of braying birds. Once called Jackass Penguins in honor of this sound, they are now known as the African Penguin.
The restaurant, with a veranda overlooking the sea, offers fresh seafood. Try the spiced calamari for $4.50, or more elaborate dinners such as crayfish Thermidor for about $32. Perhaps best of all is the wine from the newly established Cape Point winery. The Cape Point Chardonnay is recommended.
For more, go to: www.sa-venues.com/wc/boulders.htm.
Yvonne Pearson
For International Living
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