Rural Istria

Picture sunlight dappling through woodland glades, verdant hills crowned with tiaras of honey-colored medieval villages of loggias, archways, cobblestone streets, and little squares. With its community of artists and musicians, one of the loveliest of Istria's rural towns is Groznjan. In 1910, it was under Austrian rule. The census of that year shows a thriving population of over 1,600 within the town, and another 4,000 in the outlying area. By 1956, two-thirds of the population had emigrated and only a handful of families were left within Groznjan's walls.

An art town
Then, in 1965, Tito's government decided to turn it into an art town. Artists from all over Croatia and the neighboring Yugoslav region of Slovenia were invited to take over the houses and save the town from further decline. They've been here ever since, maintaining Groznan's postcard-perfect wrought iron balconies, cylindrical chimneys, and architraves bearing ancient coats of arms. And they've been joined by classical musicians. During summer, the sweet sound of string quartets can be heard amongst the renovated houses.

On top of a dramatic rocky perch, another medieval gem is Motovun. Its walls, gates, towers, and piazzas are a legacy of the Venetians. Reminders of them are everywhere. Venetian lions guard the town gates, and numerous buildings display the coats of arms of La Serennissima. In late July and early August, Motovun's streets and squares host a five-day (and night) International Film Festival, with open-air showings of around 80 avant-garde films from Europe and the U.S.

Strange stories
St. Barbara's leg, the undecayed tongue of St. Mary of Egypt…the head, spinal column, scapula, and neck muscles of St. Sebastian (the neck muscles were still intact when his head was torn from his body)…: For gruesomely weird sights, you'd look long and hard to find anything stranger than the church of St. Blaise in Vodnjan. Over 350 assorted body parts belonging to 250 saints are preserved in the church. A number of saints are completely mummified-the clothed bodies of St. Leon Bembo, St. Ivan John Olini, and St. Nicolosa Bursa lie in what are effectively glass coffins.

In the woods near Vodnjan, the church of St. Foska has a reputation for being one of Europe's strongest points of "bio-energy." Hoping for a healing experience, many new-age types visit the site.

And here's something for the kids: Rumor has it that the pirate Captain Morgan once stayed in the village of Mrgani. Apparently he stashed a cache of buried treasure somewhere nearby…

Property samples in rural Istria:
--A small renovated traditional stone home on three floors in Motovun village with two bedrooms, a basement that could be converted into a small shop, and an attic to be refurbished with a view of the Istrian hills. Price: $134,000 through Croatian Sun.

--Apartments are available in Svetivincenat-a charming Istrian village. This small inland village has a rich history and exudes a special charm. The apartments are located in the center of the village, not far from the main square where one of the best-preserved castles of Istria can be found. This renovated old building has seven apartments and several business spaces. The apartment finish is up to "roh bau" (rough finish) level-the final finish is left for the buyer to decorate to his or her preferences. Two-bedroom apartments (700 square feet) are available for $82,200 through Croatian Sun.

-- Country house in Hreljin village near St. Vincenat and Zminj, 16 miles from the coastline. This semi-detached house of 1,290 square feet has four bedrooms on two levels and 7,500 square feet of land with an additional 4,300-square-foot plot across the street with a barn. Price: $175,000 through Croatian Sun: www.croatiansun.com