Life in a 17th-century Hacienda

Only an hour north of Quito lies Imbabura, Ecuador's lake province. An easy weekend getaway for Quiteños, the region is host to innumerable lakes, a spectacular waterfall, and breathtaking mountain peaks, as well as the country's most famous artisan market. Plenty of places to lay your head, too, from charming lakefront cabins to elegantly restored haciendas. But my favorite place to stay is Hacienda Cusín: http://www.haciendacusin.com.

Located near the San Pablo lake, the estate dates to 1602, when it was purchased at auction from Philip II, King of Spain. The hacienda was a working farm for most of its 400-year history, then converted to a hotel in the 1960s. It fell into disrepair, was sold in 1970, and sold again in 1990 to its current owner, Nicholas Millhouse, who turned it into the distinctive retreat you'll find today.

The main property boasts 26 rooms, including doubles, suites, and garden cottages. (You'll find a further 14 rooms and a garden cottage in a section called the Monastery, built twelve years ago, but while fun to explore, it lacks the historic charm of the original buildings.) The cozy rooms are tastefully outfitted with antique furniture, iron candelabras, hand-woven bedcovers, and many have fireplaces.

Unique touches such as brocaded ecclesiastical garments hung from the wall endow the hacienda with a sense of luxury. Genteel staff outfitted in beautifully embroidered traditional clothing are available for every need. Breakfast is included with your stay, but it is worthwhile to arrive in time for dinner, where a delectable three-course meal will set you back a mere $18, glass of wine included. The short menu changes daily, always includes a vegetarian selection, and is served in a richly decorated dining room with a roaring fire.

On the hacienda grounds you can take a walk through the lush gardens, seek out the secret passage in the Monastery, or visit the animals which include llamas, horses, peacocks, rabbits, guinea pigs, turkeys, geese, and pigs. The horses are available for riding, on expeditions from two hours to two days, and mountain bicycles are available for rent, too. For those with a quieter vacation in mind, stop by the library to relax with a book--and simply ring the bell for someone to come build a fire or bring you tea and cookies.

When you are ready for an outing, there is an abundance of nearby activities: a visit to the waterfall of Peguche, the lakes of Mojanda, or the crater lake of Cuicocha; shopping in Otavalo's craft market; exploring the craft villages of Cotacachi (leather), San Antonio de Ibarra (wood-carving), and Agato and Peguche (weaving); bird-watching in the condor reserve of Espejo; walking and hiking in the verdant countryside.

Amy E. Robertson
For International Living

P.S. If Hacienda Cusín is full, consider Hacienda Pinsaquí (http://www.haciendapinsaqui.com), located just past Otavalo. Built in 1790, it exudes colonial charm. Arrive by 7 p.m. and head to the cellar bar, where an Andean band entertains, and empanadas and canelazo, a cinnamon based drink, are passed around courtesy of the house. (You do not need to be a hotel guest to come and enjoy the band, and Pinsaquí has an excellent restaurant if you opt to stay for dinner.)