Country Article / Postcards
The Most Authentic Rotemburo in Japan
Date: 07/16/2006
A typical onsen on Kyushu--most bathing aficionados will direct you to their "best" picks on the island. Ignore them all, and head south…
Sharing bath water with several nude strangers does take a little getting used to. If you've ever spent time in Japan, then you may have noticed the national obsession with bathing. No matter where you are in the country, you're never far from an onsen (a natural hot spring).
A long-time favorite among avid bathers, Kyushu is the most southwesterly of the four main islands that comprise Japan. Most aficionados will tell you that the place to go is bustling Beppu where, at every turn, there are onsen, most of which reside in affordable ryokan (inns). You can also find bubbling mud baths and even have yourself buried in hot sand on the coast. And, while Beppu is worth checking out, the ubiquitous flag-waving tour groups and long lines are enough to neutralize the relaxing effects of the baths. If it's true serenity you seek, head about two hours south to the resort town of Kurokawa.
Without so much as a convenience store inside its tiny borders, Kurokawa is a Japanese anomaly that features over two dozen amazing rotemburo (outdoor baths) in a sublime setting. Exploring the uniquely individual baths is great fun. Some of them are mixed, but most are separated by gender, and the average capacity is about a dozen people. A couple of the more unusual ones are Yamamizuki, which has its baths right on a riverbank (which you can dip in as well), and Shinmeikan, where the baths are situated in dimly lit caves. Also highly recommended for their superb atmospheres are Yamabiko and Okyakuya.
And while Kurokawa is no secret to locals and tends to fill up on holidays and weekends, it's unusual to see many foreigners, which makes it a truly unique Japanese experience. Pampering yourself at one of the swanky ryokan can set you back upward of $300 a night per person, including meals. An alternative is a hostel on the outskirts of town that charges about $35 for a bed. It's not necessary to stay at the inns to enjoy their baths; you can buy passes at the helpful Kurokawa Onsen Association, tel. + (81) 84 096 744 0819, for about $10. These are good for three sessions at the location of your choice. They also offer a handy guide in English, which contains detailed information on all 27 inns.
Josh Conley
For International Living
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