Country Article / Postcards
The Cult of Vodka
Date: 01/01/2007The Belarusians say that a festive table isn’t worth its salt without a bottle of vodka or two on it. Despite having a population of just 10 million, Belarus is the world’s fifth largest vodka consumer. Walk into any local corner shop and you’re assailed by hundreds of bottles of the stuff—much produced by Minsk’s famous Kristall factory and a snip at just over $2 a bottle. (US$1 equals 2,140 Belarusian roubles.)
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Vodka on the warpath... During World War II, Soviet soldiers had a 100ml ration (one large shot) each day but it was never enough. They would go to any length to buy vodka from the locals and, as a last resort, would filter surgical spirit or anti-freeze through their gas masks instead. Traditionally, vodka was made by distilling whichever crop had been harvested in abundance but now it’s only made from the finest grain. Samogon vodka is a specialty of the Puscha area (near Brest on the Polish border); it’s made from potatoes but when produced at home can be so strong that it proves fatal. The authorities have a huge job on their hands cracking down on moon-shining operations. Not so long ago, they even uncovered an underground hose pipe used to siphon home-made vodka over the border into Lithuania. |
Quite simply, vodka is the essence of the Belarusian spirit. As soon as you get two or more men around a table, the vodka comes out and all is well with the world. It’s impossible for a birthday, anniversary, or wedding to go by without toasts— sometimes as many as 50––as each guest has his chance to stand up and give a speech. Everyone swears undying friendship, praises the hosts, thanks the guests, lauds the beauty of the women present, and expresses his hopes for the future. It’s an uplifting, albeit rather sentimental, experience. No business meeting ever takes place without a bottle; deals are sealed with a colossal binge. Belarusians only feel they can trust you once you’ve been drunk together. Even new purchases—such as a car or fur coat—get the treatment; it’s a way of showing appreciation for your good fortune. Unsurprisingly, in military circles, medals also have their own toast; they’re dropped into a glass of vodka and the proud recipient drinks from the glass before removing the decoration and putting it on.
Women are off the hook
As each shot is knocked back in one gulp, it’s easy to find yourself getting more than tipsy. The best way to stay the distance is to drink water in between each glass and help yourself to the nibbles always available: herring, pickles, caviar on black bread, sausage, salo (solid lumps of pig fat), and cheese. If you’re a woman, you’re off the hook, as local shampanskoye (fizzy wine that has a distinct aftertaste of feet) is the usual tipple. For the men, it’s a test of endurance; the last man standing is the “Vodka Tsar.”
Vodka isn’t just a drink: It’s a talisman, a wonder cure for every malady going. Popular belief has it that there’s nothing vodka can’t cure—from a cold to dandruff. If you’re thinning on top, wash your hair with it and you’ll soon have luxurious growth sprouting. If your feet are smelly, soak them in it. If your dog coughs, someone’s likely to recommend you give him a dose, too!
Understand vodka and you’re some way toward understanding the Belarusians.
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