Country Article / Postcards

Bulgaria: Where No Means Yes

Date: 11/02/2004

Dear International Living Reader,

Strategically located between Europe and Asia, Bulgaria mixes influences from Russian, Greek, Armenian, Roman, and Turkish cultures into a distinctive new form. Some customs here seem deceptively familiar--as I discovered when I ordered lunch with no trouble but then had the waitress tell me "no" when I wanted to leave afterwards. The first time this happened, my reaction was to keep repeating myself in English: "Please, can I have the check…please?" I even broke into my rusty Russian skills, but still, she just shook her head.

During my first visit to Bulgaria, I was unaware that shaking your head left-to-right means "yes," while nodding your head up-and-down means "no."

I've made a few other small gaffes here. Once my Bulgarian friends poured me a welcoming shot of rakyia, their traditional drink. After living for a time in Ukraine I thought I knew what to do with it, and following the toast of "na zdravy" (to your health), I downed the drink in one gulp. That was cultural mistake number two! Rakyia is a type of brandy that should be sipped slowly and politely. It really burns as it slides down your throat. My friends watched with stunned looks as I paid dearly for my cultural ignorance.

I was first attracted to living in Bulgaria by the cheap real estate--you can buy a Black Sea villa for about the same price as a flat on the outskirts of London--but I've stayed for the warm hospitality of the people. These minor misunderstandings are just part of settling into the life here…and I'm enjoying the learning curve.

Kevin Spence
For International Living