Country Article / Postcards

Keeping time in Munich

Date: 07/02/2007

by Bartosz Nabrdalik

Munich is Germany's third biggest city, but pulls in the most visitors. No wonder, since every survey confirms its popularity: Most Germans would love to live in the Bavarian capital that runs like clockwork.

To the east of the city's central square and transport hub, Marienplatz, is Munich's oldest church, Peterskirche, first built in the 11th century-the current building is Gothic and dates back to the 1280s with a tower decorated with not one but eight clocks. (Next door, however, Saint Muntidia, patron saint of single women, is no longer concerned about the passage of time. Her relics are in a glass casket in the 14th-century Heiliggeistkirche, worth visiting also for the gilded high altar.)

The sound of bells
The northern side of the square is taken up by the massive New Town Hall where every noon, visitors and locals are treated to a clockwork performance on its tower: A jousting tournament of mechanical figures commemorates the marriage of Wilhelm, duke of Bavaria, back in 1499. And, just below, dancing figurines representing coopers celebrate the end of a plague outbreak in 1517 (this city has a long memory) accompanied by peeling of the 44 bells atop the 262-foot high tower.

When all the clocks strike noon for lunch, you can head to the oldest city marketplace, the Viktualenmarkt, behind Peterkirche. No longer just a farmer's market with local produce, you can now find fresh fruit juice here, sushi, and all manner of other exotic fare to while away the day. The atmosphere is lively even after the stalls close-a lot of drinking goes on in the beer garden around the Maypole. These tall masts, found in all Bavarian towns, are typically painted in the alternating white and blue bands, the national colors of Bavaria-each town tries to outdo the others in putting up the prettiest maypole.

At night, the jet-set head to Jackie O on Rosenkavalierplatz 12 in trendy Bogenhausen-but be warned: Only those who look rich stand a chance of getting past the doormen. Among the city's myriad bars, the Havana Club on Herrnstrasse 30 stands out for its extensive cocktail concoctions (my favorite was beer with coke and lemon juice on the rocks). But the classic beer garden is the Hofbrauhaus on Platzl 9 where prices have not moved too much with the times.

Munich Travel facts

The city has six subway lines and more than 20 tram lines. The best value for traveling around the city is with a day card for 5 euro, or a weekly pass for 20 euro (a single ride costs 2 euro). Ticket machines have an English language option.

Market hours
The Viktualenmarkt is open Mon. to Fri. 10 a.m. to 6 p.m; Sat. 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Beer at the Hofbrauhaus is 4-5 euro ($5.30-$6.70) per Maß or liter jug.

Tourist offices
The main IT Office faces the train station at Banhofplatz 2. Open Mon. to Sat. 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Sun. 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; tel: 089-233-0300; fax: 089-233-0300.
A more centrally located office is at Marienplatz inside the New Town Hall. Open Mon. to Fri. 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Sat. 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. See the tourism website at www.muenchen-tourist.de to book accommodation. IL