Old world-style dining in Budapest
Date: 01/22/2007Amid the exploding gastronomic scene in one of Europe’s most dynamic and beautiful cities, the 112-year-old Gundel restaurant still stands as Budapest’s most famous, classically elegant address for good food. From the mustachioed doorman to the atmospheric Belle Epoque design with chandeliers, oak-paneled walls, and large wooden pillars, little has changed since the doors first opened to the public in 1894—it still oozes characteristic old world charm.
Tourism in Hungary has increased dramatically in recent years, and Budapest has become a favorite weekend getaway for Euro travelers seeking value for money. Low-fare flights and friendly eastern European pricing mean that hotels are often booked on weekends, so it’s best to plan ahead. Dining at Gundel, however, is not cheap—expect to spend 150 to 200 euro per couple including wine. But it is well worth it for this quintessential Budapest dining experience.
Every night a four-piece gypsy band occupies the permanent stage in the center of the dining room, entertaining patrons with classic Hungarian folk melodies alongside some international favorites. Guests come from across the globe to catch a glimpse of Hungary’s rich historic and cultural past and, of course, to try a few local specialties.
The menu offers a wide range of typical dishes, including many created by Károly Gundel himself from the restaurant’s original menu. Gundel even has its own wineries, one in the legendary sweet wine-producing Tokaj region, and a second operation in the historic wine region of Eger northeast of Budapest, famous for the red known as “Bull’s Blood.”
The best deal is to try one of the restaurant’s fixed menus, especially the Traditional Gundel Creations. Each course is expertly paired by the savvy sommelier with both Gundel wines and those of the country’s other top wine producers. Dishes on a recent menu included subtly smoked roe-deer prosciutto, rich torte of goose foie gras, and an intense tarragon-scented venison soup. Main courses also showcase classic Hungarian fall specialties such as broiled catfish with paprika sauce and cottage cheese dumplings, and rare-roasted saddle of venison with roast chestnuts and red wine-currant jus, and sweet potato-poppy seed flan.
For dessert, don’t miss the famous Gundel palacsinta, the signature creation of walnut, rum, raisin, and lemon rind-filled crêpes smothered in dark chocolate sauce, accompanied by a luscious 2000 vintage Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos from the Gundel winery.
Reservations are recommended.
Gundel Restaurant, 1146 Budapest, Állatkerti út 2; tel. (361) 468-4040; fax: (361) 363-1917 ; e-mail: info@gundel.hu
website www.gundel.hu/etterem/index.php?lang=en&mid=2
Note: Jackets are required for gentlemen in the evenings, and pets are not allowed in the restaurant
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