Country Article / Postcards

Laid-back Bahamian Getaway

Date: 01/23/2007

International Living Postcards-- your daily escape

Wednesday, Jan. 24, 2007
New Providence, Bahamas

Dear International Living Reader,

I sit on my sun-drenched balcony listening to the sound of the gently rolling waves of the ocean a mere 40 yards from my front door. The 80-degree weather is absolute perfection--a refreshing change from the subzero weather in my Boston habitat. The breeze gently waves the palm trees in a cheery Bahamian welcome. The empty hammocks patiently wait for the next passer-by to lay back with a good book, and forget about any problems arising "off-island." The brightly colored villas, along with the multi-colored xylophone fence, and breathtaking rosy orange sunsets, would have delighted Matisse's palette.

This island hideaway, the Coral Harbor Beach House and Villas, is located on the island of New Providence in the Bahamas, a 30-minute plane ride from Fort Lauderdale. We're on the opposite side of the island from the Atlantis Resort, with its rows of taxis and throngs of cruise line shoppers looking for brand-name knockoffs or cheaper luxury goods. Even so, we could still opt for a cab ride into town if the situation warranted it--if boredom from sunbathing and drinking Kalik overtook us.

A day in Nassau, the capital, includes a quick tour of the small but intriguing National Art Museum, the Straw Market, and lunch at the famous Señor Frog's. Since Bahamians drive on the left, maneuvering through the roundabouts and one-way streets was sometimes harrowing, but good-humored Bahamians didn't seem to mind. We won a few dollars in Atlantis, preferring to marvel at the exquisite and fanciful architecture and underwater aquarium. Dinner at the Poop Deck Restaurant was crayfish and Bahamian land crabs. Our trip to the Bahamas wasn't complete without a snorkeling adventure at Stuart Cove, including a swim with Caribbean sharks in one of the best coral reef diving spots in the Caribbean.

Thanks to a chance conversation with a Canadian guest, we discovered a local Bahamanian woman, Olive, offering homemade local food like conch salad from her kitchen. We enjoyed it so much we chose it several days in a row.

I should warn you that the laid-back attitude at the Coral Harbor Beach House might not appeal to everyone. Screen doors didn't quite work, curtains didn't quite close, and the shower was more like a dribble. The menu at the on-site bar was often without half the items: "Sorry, honey, we don't got..." was often the response. However, we could have our own beers and rum in a fridge in the room, and drink our own beers on the beach.

For details, see http://www.bahamas-mon.com (under the Nassau heading on the left of the page).

Jeanine Buckley
For International Living