IL Postcard

A Day Out in Paradise: $10.38

Date: 03/19/2009 Author: Steenie Harvey

Although still steamily exotic, Malaysian Borneo has turned into a realistic expat option. (The world’s third largest island, Borneo is shared by Malaysia, Brunei, and Indonesia.) A local real estate contact, Mr. Chong, says his foreign clients include Brits, Australians, and Koreans. One legacy from colonial times is that almost everyone speaks English.

Malaysian Borneo is made up of the states of Sabah and Sarawak. Sabah--particularly the Kota Kinabalu (KK) area--could fit your idea of paradise. Tanjung Aru's golden beach is only three miles from town. If you prefer snorkeling and diving to lazing under shady cascuarina trees, five tiny "coral garden" islands with white sands are only a 20-minute speed boat ride from KK.

Living costs are beyond cheap. But it's still easy to find someone who'll help you part with your money…

For example, most of KK’s visitors use local tour operators to take them to Sapi Island. In north Borneo, Sapi is one of five small jungly islands forming the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park. The 130 ringgits ($35.50) each visitor pays includes a basic lunch on the beach...fish, rice, pineapple.

Maybe you think that’s reasonable. Well, it’s not. You’d be paying inflated tourist prices.

I walked from KK center along the waterfront to Jesselton Point...it takes around 25 minutes. Here you can catch a public speed-boat to Sapi for 17 ringgits ($4.64) return. It’s the same for Manukan Island--apparently a bit more developed than Sapi.

The ride to the islands take 20 minutes. If you choose Sapi, make sure you’re at its jetty for the return boat you’re booked on. (They’ll ask at Jesselton Point.) The last one leaves at 5.00 p.m.

When you get to Sapi, you’ll find white-sand beaches, crystal waters and perfect snorkeling conditions. This is the South China Sea and it’s bathtub warm. Monitor lizards wander around the jungle fringe, and let you get within a couple of feet. But I kept well away from the bearded wild pig I spotted. They're huge.

No need to take a picnic. A small cafe near the jetty serves noodles or rice with chicken, beef, seafood, or veggies for 6 ringgits ($1.64). Fresh juices are 4 ringgits. If you don’t have your own snorkeling equipment, you can hire a set for 15 ringgits ($4.10).

The perfect day...and if you lived in Kota Kinabalu you could enjoy it whenever you wished. But even if you’re only visiting, there’s no need to pay tourist prices.

Geoff and Karen had also reached Sapi by public boat. A retired British couple, they’re escaping the UK winter and high utility bills by "flash-packing" around Asia for five months. Flash-packing is a bit more up-market than back-packing--and I can’t think why more retirees don’t do it.

Geoff says their KK base is fine--private doubles in Lavender Lodge (6 Jalan Laiman Diki) have air-con, power showers, internet…and cost $18 a night. But even top-class hotels are reasonable. Doubles with breakfast in the waterfront Le Meridien Hotel are currently 325 ringgits ($89) per night.

Steenie Harvey
Roving Travel Writer, International Living

Editor's note: Could you write a Postcard like this one? As a freelance travel writer, you have the opportunity to visit the world's most exciting and offbeat destinations. It's easier than you think to get started--here's how Steenie did it.

To read more IL articles about Asia, see:

Speak English? It Could Pay Your Way Overseas

Seven Travel Budget Tips From an Expert Scrooge

Sunshine, Snorkeling, and Hassle-free Health Care