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Costa Rica’s “Forgotten Coast” Could Boom

Date: 08/11/2008

Tuesday, Aug. 12, 2008

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Dear International Living Reader,

Every day it seems like Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast attracts more visitors—not just tourists from other countries, but also Costa Ricans themselves. Restaurants, hotels, nightclubs, and beaches are all surprisingly busy at a time of year when the pace usually slows down. Other parts of Costa Rica are certainly getting their fair share of visitors, but the Caribbean coast—especially the southern part of it—is more popular than ever.

Real estate prices already reflect that optimism. The property market on the Pacific has taken a slight hit from the downturn in the U.S. economy. Prices on the Caribbean coast, however, are rising at around 5% a year.

For the time being, bargains are easy to find around the Caribbean. In an upscale neighborhood of Cahuita, just north of Puerto Viejo, a two-bedroom house was recently for sale for $125,000. The residence is a five-minute walk from the beach. Closer to Puerto Viejo, a larger two-bedroom house on property with a tropical garden was listed at $168,000. Not far away, in the beachfront town of Cocles, a new one-bedroom house had a list price of $142,000. The house is a 10-minute walk to the beach and close to restaurants and grocery stores.

Puerto Viejo is a village on the coast known for its gorgeous beaches, superb surfing, and Caribbean music. At night, many of the streets are also crowded in the provincial capital of Puerto Limón, about 35 miles up the coast. In Limón, there’s often music in the streets, and hotels are doing a brisk business.

So what’s attracting people to the Caribbean? For decades, so many visitors have flocked to Jacó and Quepos on Costa Rica’s central Pacific coast that busy weekends in these towns can remind you of Ft. Lauderdale. While not as crowded, the north Pacific is getting the reputation of a “millionaire’s playground.” Whether the description is justified or not, the area has definitely become expensive.

The Caribbean, by contrast, is a bargain. Dinner for two at a fine restaurant usually costs less than $30. Most hotels in Limón charge less than $50 a night for a room for two. On the beach, an air-conditioned cottage for two costs about $80 a night during the summer and not much more during the winter, when temperatures are slightly lower and there’s less rain.

The Caribbean coast is easy to reach. It’s about two and a half hours by car from San José, and a flight from the capital to the Limón regional airport takes around 20 minutes.

When you visit the Caribbean coast, you’ll see a part of Costa Rica that’s not widely known. It’s home to many of the country’s native American residents, as well as those of Jamaican origin. As a result of the Jamaican heritage, the area’s cuisine, music, and architecture are very different from what you’ll find in other parts of the country. Moreover, English is spoken by a high percentage of the population.

But right now something else is attracting visitors to the Caribbean: curiosity. Costa Ricans and foreigners alike are eager to see the first stages of work on a multimillion-dollar project to enlarge the port near Limón and add important infrastructure to the city. The project, partly funded by the World Bank, is designed to make the Caribbean coast competitive with the Pacific. If the current surge in visitors is any indication, the Caribbean will easily succeed.

No one in the area thinks that deals like these will last. As one hotel owner put it, the Caribbean is hot—and he wasn’t referring to the climate.

Don Ediger
For International Living

Editor’s Note: If anyone knows about buying a second home in the sun it is Don Ediger. He showed us where to find homes for less than $100,000 in Costa Rica, Mexico, Belize, Panama, and many more of your favorite destinations. He proved that buying in the Bahamas will cost less than you think; for example, building lots with an expansive ocean view selling on the island of Eleuthera for just $40,000, and a 200-square-foot, three-bedroom house in Nassau for only $160,000. To get the full report, go here.

Read related IL Postcards:

- Affordable Beach With Ocean View

- Why I Love Costa Rica

- Where to Find Undiscovered Costa Rica

- Where to Find the Best-value Lots in Costa Rica

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Reader Comments

COSTA RICAN PROPERTIES

SEEMS TO ME MANY EXPERIENCED TRAVELERS DISAGREE WITH THE ROSY PICTURE YOU PAINT OF LIVING IN COSTA RICA, OPEN SEWAGE, HIGH CRIME RATES, AND OVERPRICED REALESTATE. I THINK I'LL CONTINUE TO LOOK ELSEWERE FOR A SECOND HOME.

Crime in Limón

A couple of readers have brought up the subject of crime... and they are right to do so. Crime is a problem in many countries, including the U.S. I’m not talking just about parts of Florida and California but also places where you might not expect it, like St. Louis, Missouri, and Phoenix, Arizona.
As for Costa Rica, crime has been a problem for many years in the capital of San José, but the government has recently had some success at holding it in check. Today, in fact, a growing number of expats now live in the capital. Don’t get me wrong. Lots of work remains to be done, and the Costa Rican government’s big challenge is to find meaningful employment for people before they turn to crime.
In Limón, the government faces a new and perhaps even larger challenge. But it also has a big incentive — the multimillion-dollar project to upgrade the port and the city’s infrastructure. The government has every reason to make the project successful, and reducing crime is a key part of that success. I believe that authorities in Limón will take their cue from the many other areas along the Caribbean Coast where crime is relatively low.

Costa Rica

Yes, the Atlantic Coast of CR is nice beach-wise and vegetation-wise, but hardly deserves the hype you give it. There are no grocery stores south of Cahuita that qualify for first or second world status. The chinese grocery store in Cahuita is the sad best of the worst.
Puerto Viejo is traversed by dozens of open raw sewage rivulets. Quepos, on the Pacific, is an example of far worse uncontrolled sewage contamination; a serious risk for surfers there. The best hotel in Limón on the water is only 75 feet from a sewage treatment plant over the water. As for the new Port Plan it is unlikely that the once attractive coastline extending from the main dock north one mile will ever be restored. Ugly, jammed packed construction, government buildings, and shored up pavement have completely vanished the once picturesque shoreline. The fact is, this touted Port Plan is not to benefit Limón. It's all about increasing the docking capacity for cruise ships whose passengers never spend in or visit Limón but are wisked off from the docks in air-conditioned tour buses to San José.
Having lived in CR I think it should be said that violent crime is a serious concern for unaculturated, mono-lingual expats. The Costa Rican Government promotes a totally positive image that belies the facts. Very few, in any, of the many tragic crimes, especially those involving tourists and young co-eds, are ventilated outside the US Embassy. As they say in many parts of Mesoamerica "El que no anda armado o es pobretón o es retependejo." (He who does'nt carry a weapon is either too poor to afford one or he's plenty stupid. Fortunately, a concealed weapon permit is not difficult to obtain for a resident in CR.

Costa Rica's Caribbean Coast vs The Pacific Coast

My wife and I visited Limon, Costa Rica in 1987. While we were there, most of the people in the city of Limon seemed to be on edge and generally unfriendly. This behavior was typical of Blacks, Ticos and whites. In areas outside the city of Limon people were friendly.

In 2007, my wife and I rented 4x4 and toured the Central Valley (San Jose, Arenal, La Fortuna and Alajuela) and the Pacific coast (Jaco, Quepos/Manuel Antonio). During this time, we only saw two black people - one in San Jose and one in Manuel Antonio. They were both friendly. All of the ticos were friendly except for one in Manuel Antonio. White tourist and expats we experienced were generally friendly.

My wife and I are Black Americans. We are adventurous, out-going individuals. We like to meet people, sample different ethnic foods (within reason) and experirnce different cultures. Our experience in Costa Rica has been that while not all places in the country are acceptable to us (Limon, Jaco and Quepos in particular) most areas are - even the small out-of-the-way places where we found people and families who would bend over backwards to help and give directions. We found, however, that we prefer the Central valley and the central pacific coast (Orotina, Esparza, San Ramon) best.

Best Places To Retire in Central & South America?

Yes I've heard those same things about that part of costa rica too. So where are the best places to retire now in central or south america? Preferably a place with perfect uncrowded surf. I was thinking of nicaragua but I'm not too stoked with ortega getting in office.

Steve

Costa Rica

Ticos do like foreigners. I lived there for seven years. But if foreigners continue to treat Cost Rica, or any country, as a place to invest, build big hotels, ruin the environment and take advantage of the situation for their own profit, they will be disliked.
Remember we are guests in their country, and if we don't like their laws -- we are still guests. The polite guest is grateful and offers to help out the host, not just take, take, take.
I love Costa Rica, and especially the Caribbean Coast, just the way it is. It does not need more development and more foreigners looking for a quick buck.

you are spouting bull*#$^

Speak the truth brother....Jaco & Quepos are realestate rip-offs (thanks to the americans)....These towns are full of crack head (criminals), columbian prostitutes(feeding off of the old white men), the home of Herpes & aides...No one who has been anywhere would want to live here!!!
As for the Caribbean coast:the governments claim to the first 500 ft from the ocean AND the Jamacians dispute of said claim makes it stupid to buy anywhere but inland....please brother stop your spin......

Limon Costa Rica

We were in Limon in March and saw lots of drug problems. Much more work is needed to clean up the area.

Puerto Limon living

This man, Don Ediger is out of his mind, the crime in and around Limon is off the scale. My first trip to Costa Rica was in 1961, second trip was in 1978, when the government was giving away land to Individuals like me who were farmers. My third trip, was this May, what a change, the crime is a problem. I have a friend who has lived thirty years near Limon and is a missionary. I have spent all my life around Latin America, Costa Rica was a good place to retire. The ticos don't like foreigner, there are no tax breaks, the crime is rising, and it is OVER PRICED. There are many places in Latin America better than Costa Rica. Don't listen to Real Estate people

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