International Living Postcards--your daily escape
Tuesday, April 25, 2006
Antigua, Guatemala
Strolling down the cobblestone streets of tropically warm Antigua feels like stepping into another era. Lush greenery surrounds this Guatemalan town, which seems untouched by time, largely because history all but stopped here when earthquakes destroyed much of the city in 1773. Palaces, monasteries, convents, and churches remind visitors of its past, and elegant restaurants, art galleries, and theaters give Antigua a new cosmopolitan air that's rarely found in a city this small.
The gorgeous Spanish architecture of turrets and scrolling embellishments are complemented by sprawling city parks, squares, and bustling marketplaces filled with everything from hand-woven huipils (traditional Mayan baby-swaddling ponchos) to unique and striking jewelry.
Though prices in Antigua and elsewhere in the country are slowly rising, most things are a bargain by U.S. standards, and everything in the markets is a steal (the exchange rate is approximately US$1 to 8 quetzal). When you come, bring an extra suitcase...or just buy one in any of the various open-air markets--you'll need it for all the "must-haves" you'll find: wood carvings, masks, woven goods, handicrafts, stone work, uniquely patterned clothes and blankets, instruments, paintings, hammocks, jewelry...
Wandering through the stalls of the Mercado de Artesanias, I came upon a clutch of Mayan women weaving brightly colored blankets on a creaky handloom. I bought a beautiful, hand-sewn, flowered coverlet in shades of violet and indigo for less than $15. How much would that cost back home?
But I'm not here to shop. Antigua is full of fascinating historical and cultural attractions. La Merced Cathedral, constructed about 450 years ago, has an elegant wedding-cake façade of yellow and white. The building is imposing with its baroque exterior and three large naves.
To the west of the cathedral lies the city's Central Plaza, which is a lively marketplace on weekdays and a relaxing park Saturday and Sunday. In the past, the Plaza has hosted special celebrations, bullfights, and even public hangings. (But today you can enjoy a lazy afternoon without worrying over a bullfighter's--or your own--neck.)
Not far from Antigua, extensive Mayan ruins, including magnificent temples and pyramids (Tikal Ruins), dot the country's terrain. Guatemala has active volcanoes, and the ever-shrinking rainforest surrounds you with almost every step. Plus, animal aficionados can see rare creatures in the their natural habitat.
Mestizos (mixed Amerindian-Spanish), Europeans, K'iches, Kaqchikels, Mams, Q'eqchis, various other Mayans, and indigenous non-Mayans inhabit this irresistible landscape. The population of Antigua is diverse in terms of historical and contemporary culture, but the common characteristic of almost everyone you meet is friendliness.
Molly O'Donnell
For International Living
P.S. Tour the Museo del Café and find out how the best coffee in the world is made. They'll take you through the process of traditional coffee production from bean to mug.