Country Article / Postcards

What to drink in Vienna

Date: 09/14/2007

Vienna is famous for its creamy coffees and beer, but don't miss out on the world-class wines here as well. The gentle slopes that surround the Austrian capital are laced with vineyards-the Viennese claim more within their city limits than in any other European City-and dotted with Heurigen, the traditional wine taverns that serve new wine (heuer meaning "this year.")

In the warm months, the Viennese flock to the Wienerwald-the Vienna Woods-to sip the local nectar. Sitting under ancient chestnut trees in a garden filled with long wooden tables, you'll join the regulars in enjoying the Gemütlichkeit, that particularly Austrian or Bavarian joie-de-vivre with a touch of melancholy. At a Heuriger, the waiters' frenzied choreography is as much to be admired as the wine. Fragrant Rieslings, apple-crisp Grüner Veltliner (a golden Muscatel), or hearty red Blauer Zweigelt are consumed by the Viertel (quarter liter) or Achtel (eighth of a liter).

Come hungry and enjoy the hearty tavern fare of chicken, Schnitzel (breaded veal or pork cutlets), Schweinsbraten (roasted pork), salads, and breads layered with cheese or Liptauer-a rich spread made of cream cheese, paprika, and onion. Apfelstrudel is always offered, but don't expect to finish your meal with coffee: most Heurigen don't serve it.

Not all Heurigen are alike. Mayer-am-Pfarrplatz, in the popular village of Grinzing, was where Beethoven composed his 6th Symphony (Pastoral) and worked on his greatest opus, the 9th Symphony (Choral). Today it is one of Vienna's leading Heurigen.
The taverns in Stammersdorf or nearby Jedlersdorf are in a picturesque area at the foot of Bisamberg Hill. The Winzerhof Leopold in Stammersdorf serves prize-winning white and red wines in a friendly, modern setting. The Weingut-Heuriger Schilling offers a view over the vineyards from the bright, airy conservatory, and from the orchard where you can savor proprietary wines with a specialty buffet and homemade sausages.

Wine and song The Heurigen offer not only wine but music, usually by strolling musicians who serenade with the traditional, sentimental Viennese melodies known as Schrammelmusik. The Schrammel Brothers, 19th-century Viennese musicians who helped to formalize what was already an Austrian folk tradition, left an indelible mark on the musical culture of this former imperial city. No less an authority than the Waltz King himself, Johann Strauss, said, "If you want to hear true Viennese music, then you have to go to the Schrammeln."

Beethoven must have enjoyed a glass or two as he worked here in Mayer-am-Pfarrplatz, Grinzing, now one of the most popular Viennese wine taverns.

If you're feeling a bit more adventurous, visit the smaller genuine Heuriger taverns that offer buffet-style food. You'll find many places to relax in Ottakring and Mauer, to the southwest of Vienna, and in Oberlaa at the foot of the Laaer hill.

For a list of Heurigen throughout Vienna and its suburbs, check the official website: www.wien-info.at.

Finding the wine
The following directions are from downtown Vienna:
Grinzing: Take the 38 tram from the Schottentor station on the Ring or take the U4 (underground) to the last stop, Heiligenstadt, and from there walk to the buses and take the 38A to Grinzing. It's a small village and everything is within walking distance.
Stammersdorf: Take the U6 to Floridsdorf and then the 30 or 31 tram to Stammersdorf. You could also take the 31 tram from the Schottenring station (1st District) to Stammersdorf (last station). The Heurigen are within walking distance.
Ottakring: Take the U3 to the last stop.

Travel in Vienna Vienna has an excellent public transportation system: clean, safe, and usually punctual. If your stay in town is short, the best pre-paid transportation ticket is the Vienna Card (18.50 euros) available at most hotels, the Tourist Information Center on Albertinaplatz (catty-corner from the Albertina Museum), at the Vienna Transportation System outlets, and at major U-Bahn stations. The Card allows visitors to discover the city for 72 hours by underground, bus, or tram with discounts at 210 venues. The accompanying brochure (in English, German, French, and Italian) lists all the special offers throughout the city, including discounts at concerts, museums, shops, cafés, Heurigen, and restaurants.

P.S. Vienna gets its name from the Latin word for wine, vinum. Originally a Celtic settlement, Vienna later became an important military and commercial center under the Romans, who loved their wine. The third-century Emperor Probus promoted grape growing in the Roman provinces. In Vienna, the grapes thrived and the Romans called the place "Vindobona": good wine!