Country Article / Postcards

Staying Warm in Moscow

Date: 02/14/2006

Dear International Living Reader,

When the temperature plummets, sensible Muscovites stay out of the cold as much as possible. But how do you relax and socialize at the same time in arctic conditions? Simple: head to the nearest banya.

A banya is a traditional steam bath, largely unknown by foreigners, but beloved by Russians, whether at their dacha in the countryside or in one of the many public banyas.

It's a truly worthwhile and healthy experience. Like the Russians, I go regularly with a small group of close friends. My favorite banya is Sandunovskiye, the most regal (and most expensive) in central Moscow. The main room, where you sit and chat, eat, and cools off between steams, is more like a gentleman's club in London--rich wood paneling and private booths.

Here's how it works: After getting undressed, put a bunch of branches--juniper, oak, or ash--in a tub of hot water to soften them up. Then, after a quick shower, head into the parilka (steam room) for your first steam, not forgetting to wear the special felt banya hat which stops your brain from boiling. Once you can't take the heat anymore, dunk yourself in one of the wooden vats of freezing cold water provided ( basseyn). The contrast is extreme, your brain feels like it has gone numb and your skull about to drop off as you stagger into the next room to leisurely swim a couple of lengths in the pool that is reminiscent of a Roman bath.

Back in the booth, wrapped up in the sheets provided before ordering tea and honey and perhaps a bowl of shrimp--the dish of choice at the banya--discuss politics, life, and love before heading back for your next steam, this time with your softened branches in hand.

Wait until you have got a good sweat going, then start the beating. Some of this can be done on your own, but you need your banya buddy to administer a back whipping while you lie on your front. (When you can take no more, swap places to get your revenge.) Although this seems sadomasochistic, the beatings help release toxins from the body.

After two hours of steaming, whipping, dunking, swimming, chatting, eating, and drinking, it is time to brave the cold again. However, this time, you're gliding happily and serenely along the icy streets, safe in the knowledge that one of the deepest sleeps available to mankind is awaiting you when you return home.

Piers Gladstone
For International Living

P.S. The nearest Metro station to Sandunovskiye Banya is Kuznetsky Most. After leaving the Metro, go right on Pushechnaya Ulitsa, take the first right (Ulitsa Rozhdestvenka) and then your first left into Sandunovsky Pereulok. The banya is on the right, at the bottom of the street. A two-hour session in Sandunovskiye costs $40; refreshments cost another $20 to $40. You will find cheaper (and, though opinion is divided, better) banyas, but you'd need good Russian to use them properly.