Country Article / Postcards

Carnaval!

Date: 03/08/2006

I intended to write to you before now, but...well, it was Carnaval time in Panama City.

With the exception of Brazil, nowhere takes its Carnaval season--the week before Ash Wednesday and the beginning of Lent--more seriously than Panama.

My first time here for Carnaval, friends advised caution, and shared stories of bacchanalia:

"You need to be careful during Carnaval. It’s dangerous in the city. Pickpockets will be everywhere. Don’t wear your watch. Mind your wallet and jewelry."

"Carnival is insane! You party from the moment you wake up, take a nap sometime in the afternoon, and then start all over again so you can go all night."

I’ve been to my fair share of parties, and enjoyed some excellent festivals, but for this event at this time (probably because Panama is so popular with International Living readers, and our office is so hectic), I wasn’t interested in spending the entire four days among the hoards of Carnaval revelers...but I did want to experience some of it.

I threw together my plan for Carnival two days before the party began. (Tip: This is not a good idea. Most Carnaval-goers make plans and hotel reservations a year ahead of time. I was extremely lucky to accomplish anything at the last minute.)

We headed to the Hotel Panama where we spent one day poolside and two nights strolling Via España, the epicenter of this year’s celebrations.

The Hotel Panama gave us a bird’s eye view of a live (and loud) concert directly outside our window, but also provided a place of refuge from the crowds.

It’s a bit of a thrill to throw confetti in a total stranger’s face...like sneaking up on a child and yelling "boo." Oddly sadistic, but all in fun. (Whenever we weren’t doing this, it was payback--we had confetti tossed in our unsuspecting faces.)

After two days of confetti, loud music, painted faces, beautiful women, cerveza (beer), and seco (traditional Panamanian liquor)--and not a single malicious incident, I should add--we were ready for some R&R...so we headed to the beach. More on that later.

Brandon Clogston
For International Living

P.S. Whether you’re planing for Carnaval 2007...or you just want to visit Panama, you should contact Giulia Gonzalez at panama@internationalliving.com. Giulia can arrange airport transfers, city tours, and accommodation in IL’s apartment in Casco Viejo, Panama City’s Old Town (from $125 per night, discounts available). This place is a gem, with stone and brick walls re-pointed and left exposed wherever possible. The floors have been laid with hand-painted tiles from Colombia. Every window is shuttered. The spindles on the front balconies have been repaired and replaced, each new one carved by hand. The old well is a feature in the back garden. Every original detail preserved or recreated...and all the conveniences and comforts of 21st-century living added. Dishwashers and DVD players...Direct TV and high-speed wireless Internet. The wood-paneled library on the ground floor is private and quiet. Close the doors and the noises from the street disappear.