Country Article / Postcards

Eat your way through…Madrid

Date: 03/19/2007

by Teba Orueta

With its many culinary tourist traps and overpriced, over-rated restaurants, finding good food, like a local mamá would make, can be a challenge in Madrid. As with all good things in life, we recommend that you have the best or don't bother at all. Here’s a quick guide to tasting some of the best of the capital’s cuisine.

Finest cured ham

Be sure to order jamon ibérico de bellota, ham from a special Iberian breed of acorn-fed pigs. To try before you buy, head to La Garriga, a delicatessen serving tasty samples of the cold meat in a bocadillo (Spanish sandwich). This spot will slice and air-tight seal small packs of your favorite cuts. If you have bought or been given an entire leg of this jamón and don’t know what to do with it, the staff will turn it into a stash of vacuum-packed ham for you to give as an edible gift.
La Garriga, Paseo de la Castellana, 153; tel. +34 91570-0139

Tastiest tapas
For tasty snacks in an historic setting, visit Madrid's oldest tavern, Taberna de Antonio Sanchez, tucked away in one of the city´s oldest neighborhoods. Sampling their morcilla (blood & rice sausage), vino de consagración (sweet wine made for religious ceremonies), and torrijas (an Easter dessert reminiscent of French toast) is a must when visiting Madrid. Come here for the full tapas as the à la carte dining is not as good.
Taberna de Antonio Sanchez, Calle Mesón de Paredes, 13; tel. +34 91539-7826

Orueta family recipe for gazpacho Ingredients: 1.2 kilos red tomatoes 60 grams cucumber 60 grams green pepper 1 clove garlic (take out the green heart)* 1 small onion, chopped* 3 tablespoons olive oil (virgin, cold pressed) 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 2 teaspoons sea salt 1 cup water pepper to taste ground cumin to taste (1 pinch per blended jug) 1 pinch brown sugar to counter the tomatoes’ acidity Preparation: ( gazpacho should be made at least 1-2 hours before serving) Do not peel the tomatoes, cucumbers, or peppers—most of the flavor lies in the skin. Divide the above ingredients into several equal portions to go in the blender jug. Put each portion into the jug and blend thoroughly. Taste for salt, garlic, and onion before sieving the mixture to separate the liquid from the seeds and skins. Do this for all the portions until you have a container of gazpacho. Ideally, re-blend the liquid to ensure it mixes well and is extra-smooth. Chill in the refrigerator for 1-2 hours or overnight. Fresh gazpacho will keep for 2-3 days in the refrigerator. Serving and garnish: Gazpacho is best served very chilled. Accompany the dish with a selection of individually portioned and finely chopped cucumber, tomato, onion, hard-boiled egg, and plain bread croutons for your guests to add to the soup. *Tips: The green heart inside the garlic should be removed to prevent the garlic "repeating" after the meal. If the gazpacho is served on the day it is made, a little more garlic or onion can be added. If it is served the day after it is made, keep the garlic and onion to a minimum as their flavor and intensity will get stronger by the hour.

Best croquettes

Most Madrileños are on an eternal quest for the best place to eat
croquetas, another tapas staple (Spanish croquettes are usually made with ham or fish). My personal favorite is El Mollete, where I also order the spring onion scrambled eggs for the perfect tapas experience.
El Mollete, Calle de la Bola, 8.

Healthiest lunch
In the summer months you might want to have something lighter. If you find yourself visiting the Prado or Thyssen museums, or are simply strolling through the Puerta del Sol, a five-minute walk will bring you to the traditional Casa Manolo, one of Madrid's iconic restaurant-cafés with some of the best Spanish home-cooked dishes—including the best bowl of fresh gazpacho around. Aside from being refreshing in the city’s heat, this cold red soup is packed with vitamins and flavor (see the recipe, right).
Casa Manolo, Calle Jovellanos, 7; tel. +34 91521-4516

Best hangover cure
Casa Lucio is not too far down the main road in this neighborhood. The star dish here is huevos estrellados (“shattered” eggs), a deliciously simple dish made of fried eggs and French fries. Come here for a good old hangover cure or make it a point to dine—their tenderloin breaded steak is highly recommended. Casa Lucio, Calle de la Cava Baja, 35; tel. +34 91365-8217

Heartiest stew
If you’re seriously hungry, cocido is to Madrid what Peking Duck is to Beijing––and a tasty version of this hearty stew is served year-round down this same road at La Bola restaurant. A thick meal of chickpeas, black pudding, and cabbage cooked in a broth, cocido is sometimes cooked with chicken or pork. This is a must-try dish, even if it is 104°F outside. Restaurante La Bola, Calle de la Bola, 5; tel. +34 91547-6930

Best sugar fix
For something sugary to finish with, the only place outside my mother’s kitchen that serves a perfect bowl of arroz con leche (Spanish rice pudding) is Alkalde. This famous Basque restaurant’s entire menu is delicious but can be pricey. If all you want is a sweet fix, however, you need look no further.
Alcalde, Calle de Jorge Juan, 10; tel. +34 91576-3359