Country Article / Postcards

Cool Tips For a Hot Summer in Madrid

Date: 08/01/2007

Back in 1989, a band called Los Refrescos were top of the Spanish charts with their song Aquí No Hay Playa ("There's No Beach Here"), claiming that however cultural Madrid was, it could never make up for the lack of beaches. Not much can be done about geography, but if you're in Madrid during July and August, there are ways to enjoy summer without perishing from heat-stroke. Here's a quick guide to the cooler side of the city.
Afternoon thirst-quencher. Be sure to try the quintessentially Spanish refreshment horchata de chufa. Served ice cold, Horchata is produced by squeezing the sweet milky juice from the tubers of the tiger root or sedge plant (first introduced by the Egyptians more than 500 years ago). You can watch it being freshly made at La Fábrica de Horchata. If you are a diabetic or worried about your weight, try a sugar-free version at Horchatería La Alboraya. The best fresh version, however, is said to be found at El Kiosko de Miguel, running since the 1940's. Miguel's is the only such street-kiosk left in Madrid, and the horchata is served without cinnamon.

Creamy delights. Find a seat at Heladería Bruin's terrace and cool down with scoops of vanilla ice cream as the sun sets over the trees of the Parque del Oeste. Or take the train over to Aravaca district's Heladería Livorno. Opened more than 25 years ago by the grandson of Italians, this home-made ice cream haven offers traditional ice cream (and healthy options for diabetics and lactose-intolerant customers). Spain's Queen Sofia is known to have ordered the cherry ice cream here.
Ice-cold indoors. For the ultimate chill factor, head out to the Madrid Xanadú shopping complex for the two artificial indoor ski and snowboarding slopes. These are the largest covered slopes in Spain--and Europe--open year-round until well past midnight.
Splash out! Despite the lack of a beach, Madrid has plenty of well-tended, outdoor swimming pools that cost little more than 4 euro ($5.50) a head. A lesser known (and less crowded) option is the Polideportivo Jose Maria Cagigal, which was once a private club. Set on fine green lawns with an extensive shaded area, this club boasts four pools, including one indoor lap-pool and an outdoor Olympic-sized pool, tennis courts, and a pleasant outdoor self-service café, terrace, and bar. A more popular alternative is the three-pool Piscina de la Casa de Campo, hidden in the heart of Madrid's forest (one is Olympic-sized).

Teba Orueta
For International Living

Editor's note: Teba writes for The European, IL's guide to Continental living (no matter your budget). You can get a free subscription here.