Country Article / Postcards

VILLA OF THE BOTTOMS ON SPAIN'S HEAVENLY COAST

Date: 06/04/2003

Dear International Living Reader,

Spain's Costa del Azahar, stretching north of Valencia, is the Orange Blossom Coast, so-called because of the thousands of orange groves sandwiched between the Sierras and the sea.

Unlike some Costa Blanca resorts, Benicassim here still feels totally Spanish. Its five wonderful sandy beaches, which stretch for nearly five miles, remain almost solely the preserve of summertime visitors from Madrid. And although there are some hideous highrises, the backdrop of green mountains is unscarred by ribbon developments of bungalows. Criss-crossed with ancient pilgrim paths, these Sierras are especially lovely at sunset when they take on a rosy pink glow.

Until the 1930s, Benicassim was one of the most fashionable places in the country to spend the summer. A mile walk from Benicassim town, the wide seafront promenade is lined with palm trees and turn-of-last-century villas where wild parties once took place during the season.

Pick up the "Ruta de las Villas" booklet from the tourist office which explains something of the history of each house. Some are really quirky: Villa con Torre with its Chinese pagoda-style turret topped with sapphire-blue tiles...Villa Gens, which looks exactly like an alpine chalet...Villa Pons, used as a military hospital by the International Brigades during the Spanish Civil War...

At Almadraba Beach, the Villa route splits into two sections called "Heaven" and "Hell." These names seemingly came about because most of the villas in "Heaven" are named after saints. One exception is Villa Solamar, which became notorious for its nude statues. The severe social rules of the time forced the owner to turn the sculptures around so passing walkers couldn't see the frontal displays. As a result, the villa became known as Villa del Culs (villa of the bottoms)...and the statues still flaunt their bare backsides to the sea.

Steenie Harvey
Roving Euro-editor, International Living