The Genuine (and Cheap) Thai Experience
Date: 01/21/2007I swear I've only had one beer. But from the terrace of the woefully-misnamed Texas Khorat Steakhouse, I can see a dog wearing what seems suspiciously like a Bruce Willis vest. Further down Jomsurangyat Road, the third wandering elephant of the night is playing a mouth-organ. It sounds as odd as the Thai band making a valiant attempt at Sweet Home Alabama. Adding to the surrealism, the guitarist is wearing a woolly hat and sunshades.
If you're seeking an alternative to Thailand's blistering heat and tourist resorts, you'll find it in Nakhon Ratchasima, also known as Khorat. The city calls itself the Gateway to Isaan, Thailand's north-easternmost province--a land of rice fields, water buffalo, and small lakes brimming with pink lotus flowers. The days here are hot, but at this time of year evenings are cold enough to warrant pullovers or coats. Many local dogs are wearing vests. And the tuk-tuk drivers sit warming their hands around charcoal braziers--some even wear gloves (no taxis whatsoever here--within the city, the way to get around is by motorized tuk-tuk; a 4-mile journey shouldn't cost more than $2).
A city of over 200,000 people, Nakhon Ratchasima lies on a plateau 157 miles from Bangkok. Getting here on a comfortable express bus from the capital costs less than $5 and takes about three and a half hours. Few western travelers find their way to Isaan, so if you're up for a genuine (and unbelievably cheap) Thai experience, this is one place to find it. Everything is for real: essentially it's a city for Thais, not tourists.
Modern malls, a Tesco Lotus supermarket; but also a huge sidewalk market on Suranaree Road where pickled-pork sellers roost beside fishmongers and fruit stalls. Several night markets have price tags on everything (unlike Chiang Mai). Mostly the stuff on sale is clothes, shoes, and household goods. Little costs more than $5.
Wats (temples), Khmer ruins, and national parks make Nakhon Ratchasima a good base for excursions. Within the city itself there are few girlie bars (though the Party House and the "Evil" club look pretty dubious) and there are no incessant pleas to come and look around cut-price tailors shops, take a tuk-tuk ride, or have a massage.
I thought the Texas steakhouse might be some kind of expat hangout, but it's mostly full of Thai males on a boys night out sinking bottles of 100 Pipers whisky...pronounced "100 Peepers!" The steak is a disaster, but the Thai dishes are fine and mostly cost 80 baht ($2.25) apiece. A pint bottle of Singha beer is 85 baht, around twice the supermarket price.
One place that does serve as "expat central" is Pasinee restaurant at 428 Suranaree Road. Run by a chatty Lebanese guy called Mike who previously lived in Norway, it's where I ran into Karen and Rick, a couple from Pennsylvania who were just coming to the end of their IT and teaching contracts.
Mike had 70 expats for his Christmas Day dinner. Along with various Lebanese and Scandinavian dishes, the centerpiece was turkeys imported from Australia. Price: 350 baht, just under $10. In Phuket's tourist resorts, the cheapest Christmas specials I saw were meals for $34.
Steenie Harvey
Roving editor, International Living
P.S. Finding info about property in Nakhon Ratchasima is difficult. Apparently developers occasionally hold "shows" in the various malls; resale properties are handled through banks. However, there seems very little in the way of condo properties--this isn't a high-rise city.
Editor's note: The exact location is yet to be confirmed...but the Live and Prosper in Asia Seminar is happening June 2007. To get first priority on discounts, put yourself on the advance notice list for this event: events@internationalliving.com .
Rate this Postcard:
Rating: 3/5 (21 votes cast)