“Colombia? Are You Crazy?”

Tuesday, Nov. 13, 2007

Learn more about Colombia in International Living Postcards--your daily escape

“Colombia? Are you crazy? They hate Americans, and if you ever have to fly into Bogotá, the murder rate is one in 100.”

My recent Postcard from Popayán, Colombia, drew a large and energetic reader response. Many of you wrote for additional information on Popayán. I also heard from a number of IL readers living in Colombia who enjoyed reading about their adopted country…as well as a Michigan couple who is currently building a home there.

But I also got a number of e-mails like the one above, and more.

Three subscribers canceled their subscriptions in horror, while the remainder fell into three categories: people who wanted to rant based on erroneous impressions garnered from movies and TV shows; readers who have actually been to Popayán or Colombia, who, like me, fell in love with the architectural beauty, dramatic scenery, and the great Colombian people; and informed travelers and expats who expressed honest concerns about safety.

And among them all, several points were raised that deserve to be addressed.

I’ll start with the opening statement: If the murder rate were one in 100, we wouldn’t have to wait long before Colombia would be completely devoid of human beings. Bogotá’s murder rate in fact has dropped 71% since the 1990s and is now lower than Panama City, Panama, which is not perceived as a dangerous place.

As to the statement that “they hate Americans,” I strongly disagree--and should point out that while many made this claim, I did not hear it from anyone who had actually been to Colombia. I found the Colombian people to be friendly, open, and welcoming, from Pasto in the south to Cartagena in the north.

Philip, who identified himself as a “nationally published travel writer” got the prize for the largest font and most exclamation marks as he angrily informed me that my opinion differed from the U.S. State Department’s website. In fact, he warned me that he’s reporting me to the State Department.

But Philip has a point: I do in fact take the State Department’s warnings with a grain of salt, and have never let them discourage me from visiting a country. If I worried about what the State Department said, I’d never go anywhere. Personally, I take the specific city and neighborhood warnings in Lonely Planet guidebooks much more seriously.

My advice? Before going to any country, review the State Department’s travel warnings and consular information sheets, and then make up your own mind. Remember that every country has bad and good areas, and try not to paint an entire country with the same brush. If their warnings are going to cause you to look over your shoulder and not enjoy yourself, then it may be best not to go. There are better choices for you.

Kaycee asked why I hadn’t mentioned the drug lords. To be honest, I didn’t meet any drug lords during my visit. I didn’t look for them, and none approached me to introduce themselves. But in my experience, the majority of the people who run into problems with the drug scene in places like Colombia or El Salvador do so because they’re involving themselves in some way. Most travelers don’t notice the drug trade one way or the other. In the world of drugs, I think the providers in places like Colombia are in a less dangerous environment than the wholesalers, dealers, and addicts that they sell to in the U.S.

Michael--an experienced expat who recently returned from Colombia--expressed his concern about safety in the area south of Cali. Michael’s Colombian friends warned him away from this region, while mine told me it was currently safe to go. And while I felt safe in Popayán, I respect what Michael has to say, and would offer the following advice, no matter what country you’re considering: Do what both of us did, and gather your own intelligence so you can make up your own mind. Don’t consider settling where you don’t feel comfortable. Listen to the locals.

And make no mistake--Colombia may not be the most dangerous place in South America, but it’s by no means the safest, either. As I mentioned in both International Living magazine and Latin America Insider, if you choose to live in Colombia, the risk posed by its political instability is a drawback. The eastern jungles are a FARC revolutionary stronghold, while the Caribbean is outside their sphere of influence; elsewhere, the picture is changing. During my travels in southern Colombia, some of the areas I visited were considered too dangerous less than a year before my arrival. Thanks to the strong efforts of President Uribe (whose own father was killed by FARC terrorists), the situation is improving.

Finally, the best and most valuable point was hidden in what Joseph says: “How do you live with yourself, pandering this nonsense to the average person who could find themselves in deep trouble and much danger?…all to save a few bucks on coffee, dinner, and apartments.”

And while Joseph has not been to Colombia, he hit the nail on the head. One should never make the decision on where to live based on cost of living alone. Every country in the world has trade-offs, and those with a very low cost of living, like Colombia, usually have trade-offs worthy of close attention. Expats who move to a country only for the cost of living--without otherwise being satisfied with the culture and their environment--have almost no chance at happiness.

There are plenty of inexpensive places to live around the world, and there’s no reason to settle for anything less than one that will lead to the life you’re looking for. Colombia won’t be for everyone, but for a growing number of expats it will continue to be a good fit.

Thanks to everyone who took a moment to write.

Lee Harrison
Roving Latin America Editor, International Living

Related articles:

- Colombia the Retirement Haven…?

- Live on Your Monthly Social Security in the Colombian Sierra

- Discover the Opportunities the World Has to Offer

Related events:

- If you have any further comments or wish to speak with Lee, he will be available at the Live and Prosper in Uruguay Seminar, Nov. 28-30, Montevideo, Uruguay.